Hi guys, this is my first post and I’m hoping you can help me with some of these questions. I'm going to be honest; I haven’t done ALOT of work on cars, but i want to learn and get great satisfaction out of doing these things myself.....

Anyway, my first problem is this: The infamous 70MPH+ vibration! I have taken my 2000 Disco with 75000 miles in and had the ujoints greased and I 'believe' he balanced it too. I have purchased 2 new ujoints (I know I need a third), and plan on replacing them next weekend per suggestion of discomike. How big of a job is this to do myself? I believe, even though they were just greased, that it is the ujoints because when i put it in reverse, it SOMETIMES make a clunking noise. Also, how can I be sure that it is, in fact, the front? If I replace the ujoints, should i also have the driveshaft rebuilt/replaced, or not? The last thing I want is for the shaft to break, but doesn’t replacing the ujoints help reduce this risk? I have checked the rear drive shaft rubber gasket and that is in great shape. In fact, the ujoints, front and rear, also look in good shape...but I cant think of anything else that’s causing this issue.....could worn breaks/rotors be causing this vibration? Either way, it still doesn’t explain the clunk.

Second, I also have a whine from the belt area, but only when the car is idling...the serp belt was just replaced. Any ideas? I don’t want to put dressing on it, and the belt seems tight anyway...

Third, I have a clicking coming from the steering wheel when I turn right. It almost sounds like a spring needs to be greased inside the steering wheel itself? Odd.

Fourth, I am feeling a small clicking in my break pedal when I’m slowing down, but not when I depress the break when stopped. I am replacing the brake pads next weekend, could they be the cultrate?

Lastly, how big of a job is it for me to change my transmission fluid myself? Is there a site to help with steps to do this?

I know there are a ton of questions there, but any help would be appreciated! I love my disco but because of this, every noise and sound out of the ordinary bugs the crap out of me! lol

Thanks again,
Mike

 

replacing your u-joints may stretch your ability, at the minimum you need a bench mounted vice, sockets, a really good set of pliers or circlip pliers.
the needle bearings inside have a tendency to disloge w/o you knowing, if you reassemble this way your new u-joint will self destruct in short order.

They're easy to replace if you know how, you may consider having a beer party with a mechanic friend and just pay attention.
You may remove driveshaft and take it to someone & let them do it too.

I've had two vehicles that had high speed vibrations because they needed new rotors which may explain your brake pedal "click"? your mileage is about right for the previous owner to have needed brakes badly, in my opinion.

my RR & my disco both clunk when shifting into reverse

 

I think it was Rovers attempt at a back up alarm. Instead of beeping, they clunk...

 

Mike

The small clicking in the brake pedal when slowing may indicate the ABS sensor air gap has increased and it is trying to adjust, usually though the ABS light comes on, of course it wouldn't if the bulb was blown.

I have a similar thing on mine, I need to replace the ABS sensor bushes and seals when I get time, for the moment I just tap them into position again and alls well.

Hope this helps.

 

Thats great...thanks guys, and funny you should mention the ABS light because guess what recently came on!? Yup, the three amigos. ha ha.

Thanks again,
Mike

 

Mike,
You might want to send me your tele number so I can talk to you regarding your questions.
Mike
mikeljacobs@***.net

 

shape...but I cant think of anything else that’s causing this issue.....could worn breaks/rotors be causing this vibration? Either way, it still doesn’t explain the clunk -- this could be many things -- worn transfer case works, worn ujoints, needed replacement of the rubber vibration. start with the u-joints, but would go for the rebult shaft if it's not much more... I couldn't get at all the front shaft bolts on mine in my 93 RR so it's 5 years later and I still have the ujoint hard parts on the shelf in the garage. I think you need a lift that can rotate the wheels as you need to get at the next set of castle-nuy, locking ujoint bolts. it's probably more than one thing IF you have vibration, and it will get better one item at a time. This might be inter-related to one other thing you noticed... Was there a recent brake job done on the car? did they get the wheel bearing tension set correctly? rover wheel bearing tension is one of the WORST engineering blunders in my opinion -- it's hard to set correctly.




Second, I also have a whine from the belt area, but only when the car is idling...the serp belt was just replaced. Any ideas? I don’t want to put dressing on it, and the belt seems tight anyway... -- could be a BAD idler pulley. they are replacement items that go bad when the internal bearings go out. spray WD40 at the bearing and see if it quiets up -- replace it if so... It's not a waste of time to replace it anyway if you are at 100K miles.

Third, I have a clicking coming from the steering wheel when I turn right. It almost sounds like a spring needs to be greased inside the steering wheel itself? Odd. -- if the clicking is audible ourside the car it could be worn "CV" works in one of the front hubs. if the fluid ran low in one of the hubs it wastes the chrome and bearingCV inside the hub. The bad thing is that unless you know the maintenance history then you have data needed to support CV/hub rebuild. potential wild goose chase there. Does the clicking happen when accelerating OR decelerating on the turn? Does it click only when the wheels are turning? If yes check the fluid level/condition in the hub, potential hub issue. this could ALSO create your 70mph vibration. if NO -- wild goose chase....

Fourth, I am feeling a small clicking in my break pedal when I’m slowing down, but not when I depress the break when stopped. I am replacing the brake pads next weekend, could they be the cultrate? I think that is a wheel bearing tension issue or your pads are SHOT.

Lastly, how big of a job is it for me to change my transmission fluid myself? Is there a site to help with steps to do this? just did it on a 93 RRC and this is what was needed. it's not too bad. get 2 new front manifold gaskets and 6 new lock nuts (manifold to downpipe), soak the bolts in PB buster/Liqwrench, use HEAT (blow torch) on nut if it starts to bind AT ALL (re-tighten a bit first and re-oil). That is the second hardest part. disconnect the oxygen sensors, drop the front of the pipe down. next I had to remove the 8 bolts for the crossmember, pry and pound to push it down (for the pan to have enough room to be removed). remove the front HUGE pipe/nut on the pan using HEAT as well after it's soaked. remove the pan bolts and NOTE which spot/corner then fasteners each go to (some are corner tabs, other are sides). filter kit at the corner parts store was only $16 and the SAME quality/parts as the factory unit, remove, clean, replace orings, re-install everything. it's a 2-3 hour job and easy if you can crawl under your disco.

 

if you lack time right now for the tranny service. drain and refill it with mobil1, schedule the filter service for later. You need to drain-refill anyhow to get new fluid in the convertor (half of the fluid).

 

You need not drop your exhaust or cross members to change your tranny filter... The pan removes easily without all that trouble. Also, I don't recommend putting Mobil 1 into your automatic transmission.