Disco 2 Spark issues..
#21
#22
I had the same problem in my 98 D1. Back probed the crank sensor and cam sensor and everything was fine. Changed the ecm and it started up on one shot. I think the immobilizer controls the injectors not the spark, it would turn them off. If you smell gas, then i dont think its the immobilizer.
#23
Immobilisation is covered on about page 18 of the owner's manual (the '01 manual, anyway), and there's a procedure there to clear it, assuming you have the Security Card with the necessary code.
Check Fuse 20, also, which RAVE says supplies *power to the coil* that excites the transponder in the key. It's not a "real" transponder, but if that coil's unpowered you won't start.
I note that the same fuse powers the Battery Backed Up Sounder in the rear quarter panel; someone might have pulled it if that was going off and they couldn't figure out how to clear it.
If you turn the key to On and the red alarm LED on the panel lights continuously, Immobilisation is your problem.
Check Fuse 20, also, which RAVE says supplies *power to the coil* that excites the transponder in the key. It's not a "real" transponder, but if that coil's unpowered you won't start.
I note that the same fuse powers the Battery Backed Up Sounder in the rear quarter panel; someone might have pulled it if that was going off and they couldn't figure out how to clear it.
If you turn the key to On and the red alarm LED on the panel lights continuously, Immobilisation is your problem.
#24
okay guys... finally an update... I ended up selling the discovery when I found a range rover 4.0 that I like a lot more. BUT, not before finding out exactly what the problems were.
In the lot I was dealing with a battery that was shot, trying to charge it with my car and going through all that nonsense.. Anyhow, I ended up paying a ridiculous tow bill and got the truck back to my house.
Two things... if this ever happens to you.
1. Make sure that your grounds are all attached perfectly and tight. ( paying special attention to the ground and wires near the fuse box
2: Make sure your battery is good and strong.
3. When you put the new battery (that ultimately I needed) MAKE SURE THAT YOUR KEY IS IN THE IGNITION!
Yeah.. If I had paid attention to all of this I'd have save 450 bucks that I spent in towing..
Lesson learned by me, now I want to keep the education but forget about the money.
In the lot I was dealing with a battery that was shot, trying to charge it with my car and going through all that nonsense.. Anyhow, I ended up paying a ridiculous tow bill and got the truck back to my house.
Two things... if this ever happens to you.
1. Make sure that your grounds are all attached perfectly and tight. ( paying special attention to the ground and wires near the fuse box
2: Make sure your battery is good and strong.
3. When you put the new battery (that ultimately I needed) MAKE SURE THAT YOUR KEY IS IN THE IGNITION!
Yeah.. If I had paid attention to all of this I'd have save 450 bucks that I spent in towing..
Lesson learned by me, now I want to keep the education but forget about the money.
#26
Mike,
Please read the above post, truck is fixed and running well. It was the crank angle sensor, weak battery, bad ground at the body junction and the fact that the truck was energized with the key out of it thus enabling the security lockout "feature".
Truck was towed back to my shop, I put a battery in with the key in the ignition, it started right up, runs well.
Thanks to everyone for thier help and insight.
Please read the above post, truck is fixed and running well. It was the crank angle sensor, weak battery, bad ground at the body junction and the fact that the truck was energized with the key out of it thus enabling the security lockout "feature".
Truck was towed back to my shop, I put a battery in with the key in the ignition, it started right up, runs well.
Thanks to everyone for thier help and insight.
Last edited by erk; 12-02-2009 at 05:52 AM.
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