does anyone have a aftermarket part number for this? (95 discovery 1) the dealer has them for 26 bucks, but refuse to sell me 1, they say they can only sell them 5 at a time.......[:@]
thats pretty stupid if you ask me.
or does someone have a table of resistance so I could verify the operation of the sensor? i'm pretty sure it's the one in the block I need to replace. If I can't get this fixed asap, I'm going to dump this thing. love the truck, but it's now getting 7.5 mpg.

 

I have never heard of a dealer doing that, but if that is the case, call another dealer, oder and have it shipped to you.

 

Are you sure it is the coolant temperature thermistor (technical term used by Land Rover if you are talking to them)? IT is one of the two sensors located about 8" to the left of the plenum nose. Sometimes it is easier to find what is wrong if we have your symptoms rather than the component you think is acting up.

In any event, here are the readings you want. Connect your multiimeter (ohms) between Pin 25 and 7 of the ECU plug. If something is not percvect, only then check again at the thermistor itself to determine whether the problem is the sensor or the wiring between the sensor and the ECU.

°C Correct reading in ohms.

-10° 9100-9300

0° 5700-5900

20° 2400-2600

40° 1100-1300

60° 500-700

80° 300-500

100° 150-200

You are best (for a small item like this in the US) to buy from Rovers North. LR Dealers are not too bright when it comes to off-warranty models made 13 years ago. Sad but true.

The $24 price seems odd (VERY LOW). My guess is they thought you were looking for a rad fan swtich.

James

 

thats awesome, going to check it right now!
at this point i'm just trying to eliminate things one by one to find the problem. defenitly not looking to throw parts at it.
symptoms? 7.5 mpg, exuast black upon startup, black when floored, smell of raw fuel at tailpipe enough to burn your nose.
I gutted the cats (one was mostly clogged, was was completly melted and burned to a crisp) since the gut job, it's running a lot better and smoother, but still really rich.
ran a vacuum gauge yesterday, have determined definetly no leaks. I think it's down to the temp sender, the maf, or the fuel pressure regulator now. unless you have any other suggestions. oh and no codes from it either.

 

ok I admit I'm a land rover noob.
I can see the ecu behind the glove box, how do I access the plug, must i drop the box down, or am I missing something?

 

You are running in "safe mode". This is a super rich fueling designed to protect the car when the ECU feels that something is wrong and it wants to protect the engine until you can limp it to dealer happy to charge you hugely. (smile)

By removing the bad cats, you removed part of the bad news your ECU was getting. You have two options now. You probably need new cats abnd probably lambdas (the oxygen sensors that cost $135 each) or, if you are NOT in an annual emission testing area, get a non-cat tune resistor for $17, change for the cat tune-resistor you have (a 5 minute job) and increase your powerr and mileage.

Frankly, I admire everyone who tries to help themselves. You are obviously not a newbie in that!

Look for the plug, a long (4"ish) plastic thingie, that has one end that slides in on one side of the long sides of the ECU and clips on the other. You have to depress the clip and then gently wiggle it off taking care not to bend one of the tines.

Pins 1-13 are the bottom row from left to right
Pins 14-27 are the longer middle row from right to left.
Pins 28-40 are the top row from left to right.

James