My name is Steve, I own a 2001 Land Rover discovery II. I have been living in Tanzania Africa for the last 5 years. My disco has been a blessing up till about a month ago. I have been trying to figure out what is wrong but at this point i'm at a lose.
Issue: I can't get a spark to all my spark plugs. I tested each spark plug by grounding the plug to the exhaust manifold. I know I have fuel getting to each cylinder because the plugs are wet and have smell of gas. So far I have replaced the CKP sensor making sure I installed it correctly, sensor, spacers, nuts and cover. After that didn't work I changed the sensor again thinking I had received a bad sensor. Still not working, I changed the Ignition coils and while I had everything apart I went ahead and changed my plugs and wires but Still no spark. I have now checked to see if I am getting power to both coils and they both are getting 12.9v. I made sure I was getting continuity from the coils to the ECM plug (connector 5 pin 5). I also check to see if I have continuity from CKP sensor to the ECM (connector 3 pin 32,45,46) and made sure that all grounds checked ok. Even from engine block to chase.
IS IT MY ECM??? PLEASE HELP!!! I live in Kigoma Tanzania. For me to get parts here is very difficult, if I need parts i will have to order from America and hope friends can send them or bring them personally. This truck is used for my ministry and right now we have no vehicle.

 

If you have access to other test equipment that would be helpful. As an example, the ECM (or ECU if you like) also drives the OBDII diagnostic port, so if data is being sent there the ECU is alive. Might be a stored code there to guide you.

I believe the fuel pump cuts off during cranking after a few seconds if the ECU does not see 80 rpm computed from the CKP input. The ECU controls the fuel pump relay, so the fact that the pump powers up in key position 2, and then stops in a few seconds, would indicate ECU is alive, even without attempting to crank.

The CKP produces a voltage, here is a page on it. You would not be the first one to have a sensor mounted and not producing output. They can be finicky. You might be able to meter this voltage, or view it with an oscilliscope if available. The sensor is a coil of wire, and the tip is very close to the notches in the drilled reluctor plate. As they fly by an electrical voltage is produced, and the notches of the reluctor determine where the crank shaft position is. There is an extra space that tells the ECU the circle is starting again. A bent tip, metal flakes on the tip, these will also cause problems. Older Discovery trucks had a tab style reluctor plate that could have teeth bent or missing. The D2 uses a drilled plate, so fewer problems.

If checking the voltage, it would appear on pin 32 and 46 of connector C0636; wire color pink with black, and black with yellow.

https://www.cubby.com/pl/LR3+worksho...uter%20Manuals is a link to engine computer manuals download, in pdf. Select the Bosch one for a Discovery 2.

 

First I want to thank you for your response. I have a HawkEye that connects to the OBDII. I checked for codes and the only code I get is 108 Fault. and after trying to start the truck, this is the first time this code showed up. I'm receiving a signal from CKP to the ECM or ECU, I'm reading RPMs. When I crank the engine I get about 165 RPMs, and I see the fuel pump relay go on also when I crank the engine then go's off when the key returns to postion II.

 

I've heard of a bad fuse box causing no spark issues.

 

engine compartment or interior?

 

I think interior.

 

Fuse 14 interior drives both coils. Gets plus volts from the contacts of the ignition relay which is part of the fuse panel. That 12 volts appears on the green/brown or green/yellow wire to coil. The ECU operates the other wires, applying a ground when needed to fire the coil. If bad relay you could install a bypass switch.

 

I will check it out. Do you have a diagram on how to install this bypass? I'm thinking this maybe the problem, because the truck started and run for two days. I shut it down and now she won't start again, No codes. same situation. Now thinking bad ground some were.

Living out here in the bush in Tanzania can be tough with out a good mechanic. Please keep me informed.

 

Attached is the single page schematic for the coils. There are four dual coils, set up as two "coil packs". The iginition key turns on the relay, which supplies 12 volt power thru a fuse to both coils. The other sides of the coils are switched to ground and released to fire by the ECU (four wires). So the ground on the coils is from the ECU, and it is computer controlled (crank position sensor, modified by knock sensor, and a whole bunch of math being done all the time by the ECU to make sure everything runs smoothly). If there is no 12 volts at Fuse 14, then the relay is suspect. As spare fuse panels are in short supply, you might have to wire in another relay to switch 12 volts thru an external fuse holder to the green/yellow and green/brown of the coils. That relay could be driven by other 12 volts under the hood, like the brown/orange of the fuel injectors (plus side of injectors supplied by another relay).

I would check for 12 volts at fuse 14 first, should come on when key in position 2. If volts are there, relay would be good. Then meter the green/yellow and green/brown wires for coils (other lead on (-) battery or frame) for 12 volts when key in position 2. It is not required to get to connector, if you can see the wire in the harness a small pin can be poked thru the insulation and used as a meter point.

 

Thanks Buzz. I will try this today. I'll let you know what happens.