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Fan clutch has whupped me

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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 05:20 PM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
How is the rad doing now?
just terrible....lot of talk about how great the rad was by the shop. we put it in and it was leaking terribly. need to go back tomorrow., third time this summer the rad is out of the truck. two forward...one back.

assuming it isn't terminal tho I have high expectations for Monday/Tuesday. by then I'll find that 1/8 npt connector for the gauge sensor and we'll do some temp measurements....

today i had to be satisfied with painting my new refurbished D1 wiper arms for my D2. installed in a jiff and looking great.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 08:26 PM
  #112  
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Because the D1 rad is all copper and brass, easy to solder up and fix by the shop. Surprised they did not catch that, but they may have you figured for a gringo with gold.....
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 03:08 PM
  #113  
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Just a hose. Upper radiator hose clamp was not holding tight. I didn't notice it and mechanic said it was radiator so I went with it.

I drove the truck super hard today. It felt great.

I need a new mechanic.

I'm on my way tho!!! Thanks for ALL the overheating help.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 03:10 PM
  #114  
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You must enjoy the thrill of the chill !
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 04:36 PM
  #115  
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yes. even the AC works better!
 
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 05:34 AM
  #116  
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Oops - almost forgot - with heater hose bypassed, you don't have the "bubbles in coolant" signal the rest of us get. Be sure to go thru the same "get the air" out tricks posted elsewhere, like parking on steep up hill, run at 2000 for a minute or two with coolant cap off or very loose, idle for 5 minutes in same spot, etc.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 07:33 AM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
Oops - almost forgot - with heater hose bypassed, you don't have the "bubbles in coolant" signal the rest of us get. Be sure to go thru the same "get the air" out tricks posted elsewhere, like parking on steep up hill, run at 2000 for a minute or two with coolant cap off or very loose, idle for 5 minutes in same spot, etc.
ok, what my mechanic did was blow into the expansion tank to force the coolant to the top of the rad cap and then cap it. he then filled the coolant to the line and capped the expansion tank. seems to me theres a pint of air at least in the expansion tank if you do it this way but might force the bubbles out. sufficient or not? I can manage the hill trick too.

BTW, replacing my D2 rad tomorrow. amazing the difference between the D1 and D2 rads.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2011 | 12:05 PM
  #118  
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His method seems reasonable, because there is normally the open air part of the coolant jug above the line. You don't want it 100% full.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 07:51 AM
  #119  
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Just to conclude my overheat saga:

Savannah, and Tom thanks for guiding me through some of this stuff.

Of course in hindsight it's a bit carnivalish, I'm now running really with no evidence at all of overheating. The main problem through the cooling system rebuild was that each component was not checked 100% before we went to the next one and we ended up doing some unfortunate circles.

Basically, radiator rodded, fan clutch SD, fan (temp old fan), water pump, 160 degree thermostat, new hoses, Dex to Green change. A/C coolant. Will add Water Wetter when I can get it.

Then I went and replaced the thermostat, radiator hoses. coolant and radiator of my D2. And that's running great too.

The Glow Gauge install threw me a curve so I'm sourcing another part so I can really measure temps.

I'm finishing up on my Saudi Grill now but hesitating to install until after I do bodywork.

I now have my road confidence back in both trucks although I have this tick to the lower left every couple of minutes. Thanks guys.
 
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