Trying to help this girl get her car back on the road I've scanned it and there are ten codes. I figured since there are so many there is an underlying problem most likely and since I have no experience on these I was going for some advice. She said a mechanic cut her cat off and straight piped cause it was clogged but don't think had anything to do with it. I uploaded some codes and the vehicle just stumbles won't get over 55 and dies sometimes she said. Anyways thanks for reading this and any advice.

 

Is it an LR3 or a Range Rover?

i would say clogged injectors. Seems all the codes are for misfires or related to.

figure out what model it is then post in that section.

 

Try clearing all the faults and see what returns. The "Ignition Circuit D" would be the smoking gun because a faulty coil will cause misfire codes and cause the vehicle to be down on power, however if somebody unplugged the coil doing diagnosis, it could have been set in error.
You can also try swapping the coil to another cylinder and see if the fault moves.
Coil "D" would be the last coil (closest to the firewall) on the passenger side. If you swap it with the very front coil (closest to the radiator), the fault should move to "coil A" if the coil is indeed bad.

 

It is a LR3. The coil pack and spark plug was bad in #5 and #3. Both have been changed. There was also two valve cover bolts not fastened that have been fixed and attached and that resolved the misfire #4. We cut the cats and put a straight pipe on it before we knew the coil packs were bad and cut then EGR. Is there a sensor that we need to also bypass that will keep the vehicle from detecting exhaust?

It is running ten times better now but there is still a small miss somewhere. It also shows it's getting hot for about 5 seconds intermittently and then returns to normal. Do u think I need a new thermostat?

Anddddd ... it keeps saying low coolant but we had a pressure test done and it didn't show anything yet u could see on the ground where it was leaking. It also hesitates at times to actually turn over and start - u can hear it and if I wait about ten minutes it'll start again. My keybalso gets suck

 

It quit letting me type so I'm going to finish my sentence here.

My key also also gets stuck sometimes in the ignition and I can't get it out. I have ordered new valve cover gaskets as well that should be here Tuesday 👍

 

Anyone help me please??

 

What does it take to finally get the key out of the ignition when its stuck? Does shaking the key help? Does shaking the shifter help? Or is it simply a matter of time before it releases?
If I had to guess, based in the limited info given, I would assume something sticky got spilled on the shifter. Not only does the shifter have to be in PARK for the key to be released, but the release button on the shifter **** must also be fully retracted. When these things gum up, they typically go into Park, but don't release the button fully.

 

Sometimes if u shake/wiggle it back and forth while trying to pull it out/put it in the off position it will release. Others, I can't explain it bcuz I'll just let it sit and come back to it after some time and it'll come out. It sticks after I put it in PARK and go to turn the ignition off - it gets stuck at the setting between on and off (whatever the middle position is called). I have no clue what release button ur referring to on the key area/fob?

I've read these forums all night, so my plans for some of the other issues (I re-posted in the correct forum btw &#128522 are to check the break light switch, the bulbs and the "something" on the side of the battery? I'll have to go find it again. U guys and all the other members posts are very helpful - just takes time LOTS of time to research all these issues.

Lastly, how do I get a software update if there aren't any LR dealers remotely close to me? Is here a download of some kind - can u buy a one time use from
LR for the download?

 

The button on the shifter, that yo push to get it out of park. That button stays depressed on its own until you put it back in park. When that button releases itself in Park, it allows the key to be released. If the internals of the shifter is gummed up, that button won't pop out all the way (it may seem like it popped out, but might only be half way out) and prevent the key from releasing. Sometimes wiggling the shifter to free up sticking internals will allow the key to be removed.


There is, you can register on the TOPIx website and pay for 1-day subscription, but there is more to it than just downloading. You will also need a quality J-2534 device and a power supply (not a battery charger) specifically for vehicle programming. And for somebody that never used SDD before, programming an ECU is probably not the first thing you want to try.