How I fixed my Land Rover tick (slipped sleeve)
#52
08-27-2012, 11:57 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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Thanks for this info - great stuff...I've just bought a Land Rover Discovery 2 4l v8 2003 model and I'm experiencing the same problem as Rudawski, after I have had it for a month...the tick tick sound is painful,when it appears...I'm approaching Land Rover...this is a factory fault...where did you here of slipped sleeves...if you mention this to anyone that understands mechanical engineering they would say you are now talking rubbish...Land Rover must sort out these issues
#53
08-27-2012, 05:42 PM
JED,
The term "slipped sleeves" really is just a Land Rover forum term. I don't recall it being used for anything but a Land Rover (there are a few tractor forums using the same term).
I just got a PM today from someone else who followed my footsteps and pinned his sleeves. He had a problem with one of the pins backing out (his own fault, he admitted) and the sleeve actually turned. He claims he can watch the sleeve move with the engine running through the hole in the block!
Now, this evidence is completely useless if you were to bring it to the attention of an engineer. They would claim that by drilling a hole in the block caused the sleeve to move. Of course, this is not true.
Good luck
The term "slipped sleeves" really is just a Land Rover forum term. I don't recall it being used for anything but a Land Rover (there are a few tractor forums using the same term).
I just got a PM today from someone else who followed my footsteps and pinned his sleeves. He had a problem with one of the pins backing out (his own fault, he admitted) and the sleeve actually turned. He claims he can watch the sleeve move with the engine running through the hole in the block!
Now, this evidence is completely useless if you were to bring it to the attention of an engineer. They would claim that by drilling a hole in the block caused the sleeve to move. Of course, this is not true.
Good luck
#54
08-28-2012, 10:57 AM
I respectfully disagree. Unless you are talking about one of these folks who calls himself a "motor vehicle engineer" because he has a diploma and spends his days wrenching - instead of the logical term for (mechanical) engineer...
I'm not saying mechanical engineers don't **** up once in a while (famous saying, the man who never made a mistake, in reality made nothing) - but to put the time-served, experienced mecanical engineers in the same pot as wrench twirlers, or the kid who decided to pick engineering becuase the "_____ology" course he really wanted was full, is bull****.
Pop-quiz - spot the pissed off engineer who deals with inexperienced or closed minded "engineers" on a regular basis...
Last edited by turbodave; 08-28-2012 at 11:20 AM.
#55
08-28-2012, 03:35 PM
Super Moderator
I guess the real problem is that so much design is by committee these days, and the feed back to the engineers is long in coming. Too much churn and turnover with outsourcing, etc. So the experienced engineer that would have seen something as a problem is now working in lower Slobovia on tracked vehicle transmissions, etc. The bean counterz have also pushed the pratice of cost control to inclue retirement, so plenty of seasoned engineers find themselves laid off, just before they could have become a vested future liability to the firm, while new grads are hired in droves the next week. Not mentioning any names, but they make damn good business jets and share a runway with C-130s, a wing of F-15s, commercial jets, and the mosquito spraying airforce that defends Savannah.
#56
09-05-2012, 06:25 AM
PJ,
I did not use a lock washer simply because there is not a nice flat area for the washer to sit. Using the loctite the way that I did was a much better solution. You will see once you spend some time exploring.
Total time form start to finish:
I started at about 8am tearing things down and trying to get a good plan going. My dad showed up at about 1 pm and I already had 4 holes drilled. We finished around 10 pm. Now, if I did not have to do so much of the pioneering of this technique and had a decent reference like you do (you are welcome), I could probably do this in about 8 hours if it were my first time. If I had to do another with this experience under my belt, 5 hours tops.
Here is a list of must have items:
90 degree drill
red loctite AND primer
drill and tap
set screws and nuts (get extras, cheap insurance for after hours mistakes)
cherry picker or way to support engine after removal of motor mounts
oil pan gasket
These are the items I feel you can not ignore. I'm sure there are other tools etc that can make this possible, but this is a shortcut list, follow it. Obviously, there are many more common tools needed, these are the ones to shop for.
Good luck, be patient, and use your head. It takes a hell of a lot less to relax and take a break than to f**k up something. Give yourself plenty of time. Start early and do it right. You will be pleased.
Email me at rudawski@yahoo.com if you need more help. I don't always check in here. That goes for anyone else in the future, if you want some help or advise, shoot me an email.
I did not use a lock washer simply because there is not a nice flat area for the washer to sit. Using the loctite the way that I did was a much better solution. You will see once you spend some time exploring.
Total time form start to finish:
I started at about 8am tearing things down and trying to get a good plan going. My dad showed up at about 1 pm and I already had 4 holes drilled. We finished around 10 pm. Now, if I did not have to do so much of the pioneering of this technique and had a decent reference like you do (you are welcome), I could probably do this in about 8 hours if it were my first time. If I had to do another with this experience under my belt, 5 hours tops.
Here is a list of must have items:
90 degree drill
red loctite AND primer
drill and tap
set screws and nuts (get extras, cheap insurance for after hours mistakes)
cherry picker or way to support engine after removal of motor mounts
oil pan gasket
These are the items I feel you can not ignore. I'm sure there are other tools etc that can make this possible, but this is a shortcut list, follow it. Obviously, there are many more common tools needed, these are the ones to shop for.
Good luck, be patient, and use your head. It takes a hell of a lot less to relax and take a break than to f**k up something. Give yourself plenty of time. Start early and do it right. You will be pleased.
Email me at rudawski@yahoo.com if you need more help. I don't always check in here. That goes for anyone else in the future, if you want some help or advise, shoot me an email.
Thanks for being a pioneer. I'll probably do this soon with some paid shade tree mech help, as I don't have the drill and the cherry picker.
#57
12-17-2012, 07:37 PM
Just "pinned" the liners in the 03 4.6v8 with 1/4 20 bolts and lock nuts, red locktite, etc as suggested. Have run engine for 10 miles or so and let idle for 1 hour with no more knocking. Nothing else was performed at this time other than this modification. One pin was installed per cylinder, not 2 as suggested. If any start knocking again Im sure the bolt will back out or be detectable, and two will be installed in that cyl. afterwards. I think that the center cylinders will be the only ones likely to need two, and perhaps the only cylinders to require pinning in the first place. The engine was previously rebuilt out of the car in our shopuirt[awp-]], with new bearings, timing set, big camshaft, rebuilt heads, new lifters, replaced cracked oil pump/timing cover (cracked) etc. No leaks, but the knock returned and has continued when hot for the last 10K miles. Today, no more knock. First time ive heard it this quiet since purchasing the vehicle with blown motor 2 years ago. Thanks for helping with the suggestions and documenting this fix, as it will save me and my customers time and money (no block replacement if long term fix).
#58
12-18-2012, 09:04 PM
Sorry, I don't believe you. I've been told the liners don't move by someone who spoke with exceptionally high authority when he called me to ask how to fix his engine. Even funnier, that he got my number from the local paper where I'm selling my disco (incidentally, this was the second guy who called, asking for advice based on my "for sale" listing!!!)
So, maybe it was the fresh oil you put in the engine? Unless you have checked your oil pressure and reported the findings here, then you are mistaken about your tick being fixed.
;-)
So, maybe it was the fresh oil you put in the engine? Unless you have checked your oil pressure and reported the findings here, then you are mistaken about your tick being fixed.
;-)
#59
12-19-2012, 06:52 AM
Im not one to normally respond to some of this. But seriously?!
Yeah, I have never changed my oil prior to this. Wtf!
If you actually read my write up and watched the corresponding you tube videos, you would have seen all of the necessary information to prove how stupid you really are.
Do you think I would spend all day tearing into the internals of my engine all because I never thought about changing my oil? Moron!
Read it all again, watch the vids. Oil pressure readings are there, tick is gone.
Have a nice day.....somewhere else!
Yeah, I have never changed my oil prior to this. Wtf!
If you actually read my write up and watched the corresponding you tube videos, you would have seen all of the necessary information to prove how stupid you really are.
Do you think I would spend all day tearing into the internals of my engine all because I never thought about changing my oil? Moron!
Read it all again, watch the vids. Oil pressure readings are there, tick is gone.
Have a nice day.....somewhere else!
#60
12-19-2012, 06:55 AM