Well, I replaced the water pump, fan clutch, and thermostat, and still over heats. So I took off the fan shroud, and ran it till it got hot, cut it off, and put my hand on the radiator, the top was warm, but the bottom was cold like it hadn't been running. I ordered a radiator should be here tomorrow , hope this fixes the problem.

 

Always check the belt route after repairs.

 

HELP!!!!!!!!!Ok I have replaced the fan clutch, water pump, thermostat, and radiator. AND IT'S STILL RUNNING HOT!!!!!! I let it run in the driveway for 45 minutes, no over heat. Drove less than a 1/4 of a mile at 35 mph and BAM overheat! No white smoke from the exhaust. I'm very confused! Can anyone help?

 

Also should the fan be harder to turn by hand when the car is hot or cold?

 

Should be a little firm in both conditions. Like peanut butter inside clutch. Should not freewheel (spin more than one revolution) when released. The clutch is firm at cold start up, makes a "roar" for a short time. Fluid that was pooled against one side is spread out, clutch goes from 70-80% coupling to about 20% coupling. MPG improves. When faceplate of clutch heats back up from air flow at center of radiator, the clutch begins to go back to 70-80% coupling. Faceplate has to be like 160-180 degrees for this to take place.

Please check:

1. Fan blades - cupped side toward block, a plastic bag should be sucked against grille at idle, not blown away. Tey with electric fan running also, could be hooked up backwards (reversed polarity).

2. Belt route - very common for this to be wrong after all that work, and water pump runs backwards. Fan as well, so it blows into radiator instead of sucking thru radiator. At modest speeds this (plus) and (minus) = zero airflow in the radiator core and overheat happens.

Range Rover 4.0/4.6 | '95 - '99 (Gems Engine)
Have you removed the belt and can't remember how it goes?


After this you start getting into head gaskets, cracked block, etc.

 

Is it possible for exhaust gas in the cooling system without having white smoke from the exhaust pipe, or water in the oil/oil in the water? Thanks

 

Yes, and it can make hoses rock hard, steam shoot into coolant bottle, gurgle noises in heater core under dash. Can be head gasket or cracked block behind a liner. There is a chemical test for this, about $50, does maybe 15 tests. Changes color when exhaust gas is present. So it can prove things are OK after repairs as well.

Some people install various coolant system "stopz leakz" with the theory that the main ingredient in many (sodium silicate, or "water glass") will turn into a ceramic glass-like seal when exposed to high heat at the point of the leak. Most find it is a temporary fix. Many vehicles make it to auction this way.

 

How long of a temporary fix do the "stop leakz" offer on average?

 

If you believe their ad copy, it can be forever. In real-ville, the material may get you back home. Problem is that the material also tries to stop up the cooling system, so old radiators and heater cores can plug up.

 

Well, my hoses get rock hard when it heats up, and a lot of bubbles and air comes out of res tank. So am I to assume that I have a head issue? Thanks