Based on what we have heard so far, thicker oil might not be what you would want now. You have an older vehicle, unknown maintenance record, and about the miles that many have encountered oil pump problems. Basic clean oil, diesel rated if available, will go a long way to cleaning out gunk. If new oil + sludge now freed up + Lucas "honey" is a too thick combination, you won't be getting oil curculation you need. The guy before you may have put in several bottles of Lucas to "mask" a noise also. It does not all drain out, tends to stay on things.

After oil change and if tick goes away, might still want to do an oil psi test at some point in near future.

Also see this post for another source of tick. There seem to be several. https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...=ticking+fixed

You will find people on this forum passionate about oil, snake oil, additives, etc.

 

Thank you guys for the help changed the oil once more and this tome with on (snake oil) tick went away will have more questions for you guys thank you so much

Spike555 (who is not a fan of like Lucas Oil) lol
and
Savannah Buzz
you guys are the best

 

Well, IMHO you are not out of the woods, because the Lucas oil thickener basically made your problem show up where you could hear it with human ears.

If the oil pump and bearings and passageways and oil pickup screen are in good condition, you would not notice a noise change from slight increase in viscosity, no more than putting in 20W50, or even higher weight in some places like the desert. Noramlly Lucas and such products will "mask" some noises.

But if you have an oil PSI problem, increased viscosity can certainly make things noticeable.

Now Spike and I both shop for Rotella, which is a good, widely available, diesel rated oil. The extra cleaning compounds in there will help clean up your engine over a period of time. It won't make metal grow back.

IMHO you would be wise to do a mechanical oil PSI test (remove the oil light sender and attach a gauge), both cold and warmed up, at idle and 2500 rpm. You could have a problem with an oil pump. May want to wait maybe 1000 miles for some of that initial new oil cleaning to take place.

Some folks believe in solvent cleaning, like ATF flush, or Seafoam in the oil; and some believe that oil is so good today that just oil is all you will ever need. And that is true, if the previous owner did a good job with oil changes. As a high dollar status symbol vehicle, Rovers, BMWs, etc. are frequently leased or bought by households where money was in good supply; but as time moved on the jobs change, or get eliminated, and pretty soon people need to decide between groceries and oil change. And some folks think if the book says once a year, that'll do. Or if it says "X miles" it can go "2X". These engines were basically designed in the 60's, when oil change was 3000 miles, and a car was expected to be worn out at 50 - 60 thousand miles.

So it is far more common to have a "used Land Rover" really be an "abused Land Rover".

 

The tick may have already been there, only hidden by the use of additives(see snake oil) so the new owner would think all is well. Run Rotella(or Delo 15-40 as I do) the slowly clean up the inside of the engine without causing problems with sludge letting loose and plugging your oil pump and passages.

 

Use snake oil if you want, but you saw for yourself the effects of it.
I was never a fan of them before, but then I read this and ever since I have been dead set against them.

Car maintenance bibles: Oil Additives


Your Opinion: A Ford Engineer contacts carbibles.com about additives

In 2006 I was contacted by a Ford engineer who has worked for them for 24 years. These views do not necessarily represent Ford, but it makes an interesting read nevertheless.
Some of the things in your site are true like the pure baloney that additive companies put out. I have been with Ford for 24 years in research and development for their power train division. I have forgotten more lube problems than 90% of so-called mechanics will ever know. I like the way some mechanics make statements like they're some sort of God without being able to back them up. All that mallarkey in some of the feedback above claiming 800,000 miles on a gas engine are laughable. There is so much that goes into producing engine oil that dumping "magic" additives into it is just criminal. The quality of most addatives is questionable at best. Whilst the names may be similar, the quality is not. Additives are blended at the proper rate, heat and in the proper proportions by the manufactures of their particular product. Crude supplies are not all the same quality and the additives have to be adjusted for the quality of the base stock being used by each particular company, per batch. Dumping your own personal stuff will more than likely be way inferior to what the oil manufacturer uses. The chemicals will normally differ from the manufacturers blend, and can cancel each other out to the point where there will be no anti-wear properties left in the product. (This is one reason it's not wise to mix oils from different manufacturers together). Changing the oil from say Mobil to Shell and then to Pennzoil will have a negative effect on your engine from conflicting chemicals. Buy an oil that you may like and STICK TO THAT COMPANY'S product.
What you may get away with when using Shell may cause instant havoc with Valvoline. The major oil companies work closely with the auto manufacturers so that bearing material, seal material, roller bearings, ball bearings, and all other moving parts are not adversely affected by the oil products. This is especially true for automatic transmissions. DO NOT USE SOMETHING OTHER THAN WHAT IS SPECIFIED BY THE CAR MAKER FOR YOUR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION.
Nothing in your site mentions surface finish of the journals, cylinder walls, lobing of the crank journals, or a whole host of mechanical reasons for engine life or engine early death regardless of what oil you use. Nobody has mentioned how wear is affected by hotrodding the vehicle. I can ruin any engine and oil combination that you want to give me in a few hours or less. I can wreck a transmission in 15 minutes.
What about user abuse and manufacturing defects? Grinding a crankshaft in the wrong direction of rotation will eat up the bearings in 5 to 10 minutes. Quality control during manufacturing is the key to long engine life along with following oil- and filter-change intervals as laid out by the manufacturer in your handbook that comes with the car (that nobody reads).
From Ford's perspective, they test Mobil way more than other brand. I pushed using Mobil synthetics for transmission use to eliminate low speed hot oil low pressure and the opposite problem of high speed high pressure and cold oil drag at any speed. More power is lost from pumping torque than from bearing and piston drag. Trying to keep oil pressure up to spec when hot requires a larger pump and more R.P.M. and when things are cold the pump has very high torque and most of the oil flow is going thru the pressure relief valve back into the oil pan. Wasted horsepower; it lowers gas mileage by 20 to 30%
If it takes only 12 to 15 horsepower to move the average car 60mph. and the engine plus the transmission are using 2 to 3 extra horsepower each due to high oil drag (being too thick) you can see how the C.A.F.E. ratings would not be favorable for Ford if we did not use synthetics. Engines on new Fords come with semi-synthetics and the dealerships only use this oil. Full synthetics are still better but cost more.
Conclusion: Read, learn, and use your brain.



Read more: http://www.carbibles.com/additives.html#ixzz1ahuS6J4n

 

Well, everything has a reasonable application, and then the sales department gets ahold of it....

If you think that anything will dissolve baked on "varnish" inside an engine that was run hot with not enough oil changes, good luck.

But the diesel oil does help get rid of the "not yet baked" sludge "sauce" - why? Because it has more chemical additives in it. There's that word again. So if we run diesel oil, we are deciding to put additives not found in basic oil in our engines. Is this wrong? No.

We decide to use an additive when we wash our truck, called soap. If we did not use it, plain old water would take a lot more elbow grease. Some of us use different additives, but in most cases they should be considered like a "detailing" compound to "polish an apple" that is already pretty shiny. It won't bring back a spoiled apple.

What the concentrated additives "promise" is quicker results. Your engine will be cleaner if you run Rotella or Delvac or just about any quality diesel oil, and change it often. Takes longer. People want instant gratification. If I knew the formula to something that would dissolve all the sludge and make a tick stop, you could sell it for a $100 a bottle, and some people would buy it because they don't care how much life it would take out of the engine.

I have had a variety of vehicles that I have run additives in, some bought new, some bought used. Had good results, some got to 295K miles, etc. , but I don't believe what all the sales people say about those products, or Amsoil, or chocolate covered hamburgers.

Now back to our OP, if the combination of Lucas and new oil was too thick, he most likely has some partial restrictions somewhere or weak pump, and an oil pressure test, or adding an oil gauge might be a good idea. If he put in 20W50 he might see some of the same. I would think in this example the Lucas highlighted the problem, instead of causing it.

 

Lucas Oil Stabilizer (LOS) has no anti-wear additives. Virgin oil analysis (VOA) here: Lucas Oil Stabilizer - Bob Is The Oil Guy

All it does is increase the viscosity index - i.e. makes your motor oil thicker.

 

Where can I get some of these...

 

the chocolate covered donuts are the BEST business bribe, they eat all the evidence....

 

How about one of these?

Whitecaps' Fifth Third Burger not for faint of heart | MLive.com