Well I'm rather new to the world of Land Rovers, but not new to them completely as my uncle used to have two of the I-series and one II-series. I would like to get one for some adventuring and off-roading for sure as it looks so darn good looking with the capabilities that most others don't. Been looking at some local ads, and there are some nice ones, but there is this one specific one I'm sort of considering.

It's a '96 SE, 158,000 KM, automatic with the V8.

Anyways, the fellows ad says, and I quote;

"Car is running but has a few problem. Handle on drivers side is broken and door needs to be open from the inside from the passengers door. Front passenger door lock needs to be held to be opened. Back doors open fine. Rearview mirrors and the power on the power windows are broken."

So in a summary,

-Driver side door handle needs to be replaced with possibly the inner connections to open the door latch
-Front passenger door lock needs to be held up to be open the door - not entirely too sure. Possibly some more connectivity?
-Rearview mirrors (side mirrors) and power windows are not working - electrical. I expect that the rear ones don't either. It does have a sunroof obviously, but does not say whether or not it is working as well.

I think this would be a good start, as it's an excuse to "know my car better," especially that all I do own are BMWs! I did read on some threads, that it could be problems with the switch board in regards to the windows not functioning. If that's the case, this would be a fantastic deal. All the help and advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

Download the free set of tech manuals and electricl diagrams and connector locations below, it is called the RAVE. Driver door is special, it has a small switch that turns alarm on/off and electrically locks doors. Most likely door operators (motors) need to be lubed or replaced (usually replace). Muliple electrical things are usually one fuse, relay, or perhaps a switch or module.

But before you jump, might want to have a mechanic look at everything else, one hour of expert opinion from some one who is not smitten with a new ride may save you a lot.

 

The door on the driverside can be adjusted with to get it to open.

 

The issues with the door handle and locking mechanism may be able to be solved with some simple adjustment and fiddling. If so happens they are totally shot, new mechanisms are easy to yank out of the scrap yard, you can even find them on eBay pretty often. The windows not working is probably due to a fuse (best case scenario) or the window ECU. My power window ECU is on its way out and my windows just work when they feel like it. If you can solder and are comfortable doing work on boards, you can fix the window ECU yourself for free. All in all a few hours and a few bucks should remedy the problems.

 

Thanks for the help gents! I went to go check it out, and the general condition of the body and mechanics are great. I'm still not too sure if I would want to go through with a purchase of a vehicle, especially a Discovery at a pretty much dirt cheap price. Unfortunately, where I live, you would see plenty of Discoveries being driven around, but the scrap yards, and parts cars are never around. I think spending the extra money will save me alot of headaches.

I checked out two others that ran well and all the electrics were working fine. Both were '97s (that's more of the year I'd like to get) except one was leaking engine oil from somewhere, needed an exhaust manifold leak fix and an allignment (but the tires were relatively flat due to sitting, so most likely from that). Couldn't get it to start because the battery was dead, and the seller was a lazy bloke. All I did was open the door hahaha, then just walked away.

Not too bad, but the for same price of the other one, which was in immaculate condition inside and out, everything works, no leaks at all and maintainted to the T. But I did notice that when I started it up the ABS light stayed on and did not go away until I started driving it. While test driving, it had come on once then went away and stayed off. Once back, I turned the truck off for 5 minutes (talking to the seller) then turned it back on. The ABS light was in fact on. The brakes were great though, while testing it, I was driving along at 60km/h and slammed on the brakes. Instantly stopped. They were all replaced as well.

So I think this may have to do with codes and having them reset. I read that with the Series I, the reset is under the driver side "kick panel." I do have a mechanic friend who owns a shop and sure that he'd have a plug or tool to reset the system without fiddling around with paper clips. Other than that, it was fantastic to drive, I got used to it rather quickly, easy to drive and comfortable. This one was the first one I drove, as the other two were pretty much not functioning well. I don't think I've ever felt so giddy climbing into the driver seat of any other car before (except my BMWs :P). I've looked into Mitsubishi Delica L300 and L400s, 4Runners even ML320s but with words of James May "I didn't quite feel the fizzy sensation."

 

On the DI the ABS light comes on when you start the engine and does NOT shut off until you reach 5mph, this is NORMAL and there is NO problem with the ABS system...yet.
The ABS modulator WILL go bad, this is a FACT on ALL DI's, no if' and's or but's about it, but the fix is free when it does go bad and only takes 5 min to do.

 

Oh okay, so the next Land Rover I go to start up, the ABS light will illuminate until I begin driving it? Odd, but no big deal if that's the case. However, what do you mean by "the fix is free when it does go bad." ? pretty much if that's the only thing to worry about, the '97 that I checked out is well sorted and perfect, and is my current choice of purchase even compared to possible other ones.

 

No not all Discovery Series I's ABS lights will come on when you start them nor will all of the ABS lights go out when you start to drive, that is how it is supposed to work.
My ABS light has been on for almost 5 years, it was on when I bought my truck back in 4/'07.
The ABS modulator goes bad and the ABS light will stay on all the time and the brakes will kick back at you even though you are stopping on level dry roads, this will happen, its just a matter of time.
Its a old truck, the ABS was crap from the factory, it was added as a after thought because all cars sold in North America had to have them by law, so they cobbled up a ABS system to meet the requirements.
The free fix is removing the ABS pump fuse from the fuse box under the hood.
A new DI ABS pump is about $1700US, if you can even find one.
Start the truck,ABS light comes on, reach 5mph ABS light goes out...if the system is working properly.

 

So will the brakes work perfectly fine if I remove the fuse of the ABS pump? I usually don't dread not having ABS, not necessarily a big deal in my books. Even if it's working fine, I'll just remove it for my own safety as ironic as that may sound. I read some stories about peoples brakes completely not working due to the pump etc.

 

You should be fine without the fuse, just don't pretend you still have ABS. Without the fuse the pump can't malfunction and operate brakes erratically when it is failing.