m and s read on
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Drifting
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: western australia
m and s read on
after getting the run around for the past 12 months I wright this . New alternator , new tranny ecu , new battery , new battery clamps , newish air flow metre , cleaned selector , and heaps of $s spent at different places I still have my lights on first thing in the morning . turn on / off 2 or 3 times and it goes . rarely comes on again throughout the day .The only thing that is wrong to a point is the pipe that comes from the back of the air flow meter , to the top of the motor has a split at the botom of the dust collector . It is taped up heaps with duct tape . any help would be great cos im running out of money . and do the codes remain if even if fixed or do I have to try and get them wiped again 
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Savannah Georgia
I direct your attention to code P1562 (attached), which represents voltage to tranny computer dropping below 9 volts. This is the only tranny code that will make M&S light come on, but not check engine light. Also, the text below indicates the codes will self clear after a number of drive cycles.
Normally this indicates that a battery is weak, on starting it drops below 9 volts due to high load from starter. Good thing to meter, in case battery is failing (even though newish).
While battery and alternator are hopefully in good shape, all it take is a little corrosion on a (+) wire connection anywhere on the way to the tranny ECU, or on the (-) connection. I'd start at battery (13.8 - 14.4 volts at idle) and work toward tranny ECU. Main frame ground point for negative battery might be the first place to look. Plus volts runs thru fuse 12 under hood to pin 26 of tranny ecu connector. Should be able to voltmeter at fuse, there is also a plug on bottom of fuse box. Drawing attached from RAVE.
From RAVE on D2 workshop manual, automatic gear box:
l
Normally this indicates that a battery is weak, on starting it drops below 9 volts due to high load from starter. Good thing to meter, in case battery is failing (even though newish).
While battery and alternator are hopefully in good shape, all it take is a little corrosion on a (+) wire connection anywhere on the way to the tranny ECU, or on the (-) connection. I'd start at battery (13.8 - 14.4 volts at idle) and work toward tranny ECU. Main frame ground point for negative battery might be the first place to look. Plus volts runs thru fuse 12 under hood to pin 26 of tranny ecu connector. Should be able to voltmeter at fuse, there is also a plug on bottom of fuse box. Drawing attached from RAVE.
From RAVE on D2 workshop manual, automatic gear box:
Diagnostics
While the ignition is on, the EAT ECU diagnoses the system for faults. The extent of the diagnostic capability at any
particular time depends on the prevailing operating conditions, e.g. it is not possible to check torque converter lockup
while the vehicle is stationary, or to check for a short circuit to earth if the circuit concerned is already at a low
potential.
If a fault is detected, the EAT ECU immediately stores a fault code and the values of three operating parameters
associated with the fault. Depending on the fault, there are four possible effects:
While the ignition is on, the EAT ECU diagnoses the system for faults. The extent of the diagnostic capability at any
particular time depends on the prevailing operating conditions, e.g. it is not possible to check torque converter lockup
while the vehicle is stationary, or to check for a short circuit to earth if the circuit concerned is already at a low
potential.
If a fault is detected, the EAT ECU immediately stores a fault code and the values of three operating parameters
associated with the fault. Depending on the fault, there are four possible effects:
l
The fault has little effect on gearbox operation or vehicle emissions. The driver will probably not notice any
change and the warning lamps remain extinguished.
l
The fault has little effect on gearbox operation but may effect vehicle emissions. On NAS vehicles, if the fault is
detected on a second consecutive drive cycle, the MIL illuminates.
l
All gears are available but kickdown does not function. The sport and manual warning lamps flash. The MIL
remains extinguished.
l
Limp home mode is selected and vehicle performance is greatly reduced. The sport and manual warning lamps
flash. In all markets, if the fault is detected on a second consecutive drive cycle, the MIL illuminates.
After the detection of a fault, the effects remain active for the remainder of the drive cycle. In subsequent drive cycles,
as soon as the EAT ECU diagnoses the fault is no longer present, it resumes normal control of the gearbox. The
conditions required to diagnose that the fault is no longer present depend on the fault. Some faults require the engine
to be started, others require only that the ignition is switched on.
After a fault has not recurred for forty warm-up cycles, the fault is deleted from the EAT ECU memory. Only five
different faults can be stored in the memory at any one time. If a further fault occurs, the fault with the lowest priority
as soon as the EAT ECU diagnoses the fault is no longer present, it resumes normal control of the gearbox. The
conditions required to diagnose that the fault is no longer present depend on the fault. Some faults require the engine
to be started, others require only that the ignition is switched on.
After a fault has not recurred for forty warm-up cycles, the fault is deleted from the EAT ECU memory. Only five
different faults can be stored in the memory at any one time. If a further fault occurs, the fault with the lowest priority
will be replaced by the new fault
So by switching on/off after initial start, you start a new drive cycle, and lights go out. It is the initial low voltage that is the issue. Battery dead cell, connection anywhere in the series circuit, earth connection for tranny ecu, etc.
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Dec 1, 2011 at 04:54 AM.
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