New way to do seafoam cleaning?
#1
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So I've been told by a friend of mine who is a shade tree mechanic such as myself that on my 2003 Land Rover Discovery 2 I can buy one of those new spray seafoam cans they came out with take my air filter off so my mass airflow sensor is exposed start the car and just spray the mass airflow thing down for a good minute or so while he's in the truck keeping it at 1500 to 2000 RPMs and then letting it sit just like a regular air induction cleaning.
Just wondering if this idea sounds like it holds water or if it's just a halfas*ed Mickey mouse kind of thing
Just wondering if this idea sounds like it holds water or if it's just a halfas*ed Mickey mouse kind of thing
#3
#4
#5
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I usually use a vacuum point and suck the can in. Helps to have someone inside keep is going with a higher RPM. Then before it runs out, I suck enough to stall it out. Let sit 20 minutes. Then start it up, which is often not easy. Then a trip. Had I not seen first hand what the tops of pistons look like before/after treatment I would consider this stuff another snake oil.
Adding to fuel seems nice, but I think this is the least beneficial use. Fuel already has detergents in it. I think for something that sat a long time it can help maybe.
And for oil. If you are using a synthetic, there is no point. But with blended or full Dino, I think its good to add before the oil change. Or even some ATF fluid. But if you use full synthetic oil it does not create anything worth removing.
Adding to fuel seems nice, but I think this is the least beneficial use. Fuel already has detergents in it. I think for something that sat a long time it can help maybe.
And for oil. If you are using a synthetic, there is no point. But with blended or full Dino, I think its good to add before the oil change. Or even some ATF fluid. But if you use full synthetic oil it does not create anything worth removing.
#6
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I usually use a vacuum point and suck the can in. Helps to have someone inside keep is going with a higher RPM. Then before it runs out, I suck enough to stall it out. Let sit 20 minutes. Then start it up, which is often not easy. Then a trip. Had I not seen first hand what the tops of pistons look like before/after treatment I would consider this stuff another snake oil.
Adding to fuel seems nice, but I think this is the least beneficial use. Fuel already has detergents in it. I think for something that sat a long time it can help maybe.
And for oil. If you are using a synthetic, there is no point. But with blended or full Dino, I think its good to add before the oil change. Or even some ATF fluid. But if you use full synthetic oil it does not create anything worth removing.
Adding to fuel seems nice, but I think this is the least beneficial use. Fuel already has detergents in it. I think for something that sat a long time it can help maybe.
And for oil. If you are using a synthetic, there is no point. But with blended or full Dino, I think its good to add before the oil change. Or even some ATF fluid. But if you use full synthetic oil it does not create anything worth removing.
#7
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I never would.
MAS airflow sensors are usually wire type now days. A thin wire gets hot and that temperature is read. And with most vehicles, the MAFs go through a self-cleaning cycle on engine shutdown. Not sure if the Rover does the same. In that process the wire actually gets red hot to burn off any particulates on it. If there is anything on the wire during this process, a few atoms of the metal wire are shed away in the process. Over time, more and more of the wire is lost this way which is why MAF sensors eventually fail, the wire gets too thin or uneven. This is also why oil coated filters are horrible and a great way to kill MAFs. So I recommend ONLY using MAF cleaner or a non-filing electric parts cleaner. Anything else can leave a residue and accelerate the death of the MAF sensor.
MAS airflow sensors are usually wire type now days. A thin wire gets hot and that temperature is read. And with most vehicles, the MAFs go through a self-cleaning cycle on engine shutdown. Not sure if the Rover does the same. In that process the wire actually gets red hot to burn off any particulates on it. If there is anything on the wire during this process, a few atoms of the metal wire are shed away in the process. Over time, more and more of the wire is lost this way which is why MAF sensors eventually fail, the wire gets too thin or uneven. This is also why oil coated filters are horrible and a great way to kill MAFs. So I recommend ONLY using MAF cleaner or a non-filing electric parts cleaner. Anything else can leave a residue and accelerate the death of the MAF sensor.
#8
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I never would.
MAS airflow sensors are usually wire type now days. A thin wire gets hot and that temperature is read. And with most vehicles, the MAFs go through a self-cleaning cycle on engine shutdown. Not sure if the Rover does the same. In that process the wire actually gets red hot to burn off any particulates on it. If there is anything on the wire during this process, a few atoms of the metal wire are shed away in the process. Over time, more and more of the wire is lost this way which is why MAF sensors eventually fail, the wire gets too thin or uneven. This is also why oil coated filters are horrible and a great way to kill MAFs. So I recommend ONLY using MAF cleaner or a non-filing electric parts cleaner. Anything else can leave a residue and accelerate the death of the MAF sensor.
MAS airflow sensors are usually wire type now days. A thin wire gets hot and that temperature is read. And with most vehicles, the MAFs go through a self-cleaning cycle on engine shutdown. Not sure if the Rover does the same. In that process the wire actually gets red hot to burn off any particulates on it. If there is anything on the wire during this process, a few atoms of the metal wire are shed away in the process. Over time, more and more of the wire is lost this way which is why MAF sensors eventually fail, the wire gets too thin or uneven. This is also why oil coated filters are horrible and a great way to kill MAFs. So I recommend ONLY using MAF cleaner or a non-filing electric parts cleaner. Anything else can leave a residue and accelerate the death of the MAF sensor.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
lipadj46
Discovery II
12
06-15-2009 10:19 PM
mellyagaunce
Discovery II
21
10-08-2008 07:55 AM