Sludge deposited on the inside of the engine can take some time to break down and go into solution. Remember that it took a long time for it to get there to begin with. Usually this is because a previous owner didn't change oil frequently (over years), or they used a low quality product with a high paraffin content (Like Quaker State and Pennezoil).

Add a bottle of Rislone, which you can get at most auto parts stores ---at your next oil change. Simply add 5.5 quarts of oil, and the one quart bottle of Rislone. Magic Marvel Mystery Oil is also a very good, and time-tested product. Both of these are meant for use with petroleum oils. I'm pretty sure they are not compatible with synthetics.

In addition-- yes...what DiscoMike told you was correct about procedure. However ---you are advised to put new valve cover gaskets on when re-fitting the covers AND buy new valve cover screws, as these are a special sealing type, and will probably weep oil if you try to re-use them. By the way-- I've all that stuff in stock and at a good price.

Regards,
Geoman
www.eurotekapg.com

 

Thanks. The lines and cooler are clear and the pan has been cleaned. The valve covers will happen tomorrow. Intimidating looking with all the stuff on top. Thanks for the offer but I'm getting the parts tomorrow along with a 12 point 8mm 1/4" socket. The saga continues...

 

I've been watching this one with some interest. Personally I'm not in favor of "reaming out the passages" for several reasons. But I think that we are overlooking the obvious. It seems entirely possible to me that this puppy is loading the valve covers and valley up with oil, then Slooooowly draining back to the pan. I have seen this twice on Rovers. And the only thing that finally worked was to ****** the intake and heads off and give it a thorough cleaning. Pan too obviously. It cost one of my lady customers an engine on a "Great Buy" off ebay. Top of the engine was so cruded up that the oil would pool and not drain back to the pan.

Just my two cents!

 

Well your two cents are probably worth a million today!
Got the driver side valve cover off today. Three words: OH - MY - GAWD! I think I found my problem. I should really be ashamed of myself. Or angry, I dunno. Four large cans of carb cleaner, half a gallon of Gunk Super Concentrate, two wire brushes, a wad of steel wool and five hours later, I got one side done. Here's a look. Not for the faint of heart.

[IMG]local://upfiles/4324/954CD7F65CBE49369F28E8CCFF65A7B7.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/4324/466C1CD6720940AAA9BC3A4BEAAB5E6B.jpg[/IMG]

So I now have a question: The pan is still off and most of what I cleaned flowed out the bottom, but to be on the safe side I thought I'd put the pan back, on fill'er up again with ATF and flush it once more, remove the pan and clean one more time. Good/bad idea? Definitely/not necessary?
Thanks again. Y'all have really been great. Can I tell you that?

 

Woops! Tried to edit and ended up duplicating. How do I delete a post? Moderators? Help?

 

I would not worry about doing another ATF flush, put it all back together and add a qt. of Marvel Mystery oil to your engine oil and drive it for about a 1000 miles, change the oil, don't worry about pulling the pan again and your done. In the future do a engine with one of the 1qt flushes before every other oil change and your engine will stay nice and clean.
Mike

 

Ok. She's back together. Filled it with 10W40 and one quart of Marvel, installed an OEM filter and put a bottle of Techroline in the tank. Started right up (whew!) and ran ok. By ok I mean that I got some lifter tap at the beginning and once it warmed up to normal operating temp I would get an occasional "clack" or "clack clack" of a lifter. I then ran it at 2000-2500 rpm for a minute or so and when it went back to idle it would begin to tap a lot then go away after 30 sec or so. Did this a couple of times and then shut it down to check the oil level. Showing a little lower from when I filled it, but that could easily be accounted for in the engine passages and cooler (I filled the filter before install). Started it back up for the test drive - CHECK ENGINE light. Arrrrrrrrrgh!

Anyhow, I ran it for 25 miles at 70 MPH uphill and downhill and all went and sounded well. Except for that annoying amber light blaring in my left eye.
Don't think I'm ready to trust her with my wife just yet...

I'm thinking the CEL came on from maybe some gunk accumulating on a lifter during the cleaning causing it to stick and throw a misfire code. I've had these before and it's usually because the motor's all gunked up with sludge and carbon (see above photos). I'll see if I can get it pulled/cleared tomorrow.

I'm really amazed at how much crap is in this motor. This is the residue after cleaning the rocker shaft assembly and the inside of the rocker cover on just the passenger side. Lord knows how much more was in the top of the head when I cleaned it out. Really makes me worry where it went when I cleaned it with 3+ large cans of carb cleaner.[:'(]


[IMG]local://upfiles/4324/CD3AD5CC21504194BA72BD162EB91CAF.jpg[/IMG]

 

Misfire on cylinder #4. Code cleared and new plugs installed. Everything seems to be running fine. Gonna send her out with the wife tomorrow. Thanks everybody for the advice. It really helped alot! Cheers!

Sam