First post, please forgive my ignorance; decided to buy an used Discovery II with blown engine, it has tempted me a long time and want to know details before hand.

Is it metric everything or inches ?

Is it all aluminium body ?

What is the fuel pump pressure ?

What is the rear driveshaft RPM at 60 mph, or, what is the stock tire circumference ?

Can the front wheel drive be fully eliminated, no cv joints, can the whole differential be replaced by -say- a tube, what would i need to consider ?

Now a big time sin: I want to transplant its engine + transmission from a suitable donor pickup, rear wheel drive only.

Please do not spank me yet, done it 5 times to different vehicles, take it as being my hobby.

 

Download the RAVE, a set of factory shop, electrical, and body shop manuals. In link below. Why not fix what you have and enjoy a real 4WD and not a tall station wagon.... Most exterior body panel are aluminum, touch a magnet to things to be sure. There are also those who have installed Chevy engine or Mercedes diesel.

Have fun, start a thread, and post lots of pictures. Many yearn to re-power their Disco.

 

you can't put any engine but a rover 4.0 or a 4.6. otherwise you will not have anything including electrics and everything else. Plus by the the time you are done the cost of chopping will replace the cost of a used motor. Learn how to fix a car before butchering.

 

Everything is what the Queen says it should be, some be SAE, some are metric.
No you cannot remove the front diff and cv's.
No you cannot remove the t-case.
The propshafts spin fast at 60mph.
The tires are 16", unless it has the 18" tires.
The doors are steel as is the roof, everything else is aluminum, just like the engine, transmission and t-case.

 

Thanks, gentlemen, for your great and experienced advise, and for the vital links provided by Savannah Buzz.

The well presented electric schematics show the deep engineering level of thought put by the designers of this vehicle, and the complexity that needs to be taken care of in any modification. Not very scary, but needs deeper planning.

You are good and helpful members of this community. Will be back with news at some point.
Mick

 

If converting away from the Rover engines and ECU system, you will need to address some other issues. However, it is also fun to note that many serious British car guys shove Rover engines into tiny things like Triumphs and Morgans (built with it), and many used the Rover platform to get fuel injection and get away from carbs. But when you consider you have a modest engine, throwing all that other HP and torque at the drive train would be an issue. You can already buy a Suburban with a 454, (I have a K2500 at the office, it has a 42 gallon tank - and needs it) and plenty of other big iron 4WDs and 2WD SUVs, which tons of engines wil fit in.

But like the man said, it's only money. I think the Rover aluminum engine is part of what gives it balance and agility.

On my D1, the all the panels "skins", including the doors, are aluminum, and a fridge magnet won't stick. I have some scratches that have not rusted in a year, on "the list". The roof as mentioned is steel, and the door column frames are steel, magnet sticks to them.

BTW kidz, take a fridge magnet to the auction or when evaluating a car - it won't stick on the bondo covered areas.