hi guys me again, on my 93 LD disco V8 5 speed manual 2 doori`m having trouble with fluid leak from what i`ve narrowed down to the slave cyld on the bell housing, now my questionis, to reco this partis it a job for a professional or is it some thing i can do myself,i have done simular jobs on other makes of cars but never a 4wd.Or would it be cheaper to get a new one? keep in mind i live in Australia.

 

Access to the bolts holding it onto the car and bleeding the system afterwards are the worst bits of the job - you could always try http://www.paddockspares.com as they will ship World wide and might be cheaper than a local factor for Land Rover spares in Aus.

Cheers,

 

Get a replacement cylinder from Alan Howard at British 4WD in Hobart - order online. Install and bleed hydraulics with fresh brake fluid.

HTH

Pete in Melb

 

It is not a difficult job.

As to whether to repair or buy new is not a difficult decision either. A kit is inexpensive but a doubtful solution. You may cure the problem if it is simply the seals and piston that have gone but more likely the bore is worn as well. The cost of resleeving the slave with a better metal is the same as buying a new slave. The first will give you a forever clutch slave but has the waiting hassles to it. If you want this to be a 1/2 hour hassle, buy new.

You need someone to pump the clutch. Loosen the bleed nipple and have the fluid pumped out. (Be very careful with the fluid as clutch/brake fluid is the most toxic stuff in the vehicle). Remove the two bolts and slowly (as you do not want to dislodge the pushrod from the arm) withdraw the slave with the backing plate and dust cover. Separate the dust cover and the backing plate from the slave. Coat both sides the backing plate with a gasket maker, refit the dust cover (if there isn't a new one with the new slave) and refit by carefully inserting the push rod throough the dus cover with the slave oriented so that its bleed neeple is facing up. Refit the bolts.

Get a clear tube over the bleed nipple and submerge the other end in a clear bottle of brake fluid high enough to cover the tube end. Fill the clutch reservoir with fresh brake fluid and have the pedal slowly pumped while you check for bubble is the bottle (and making sure the reservoir stays sufficently full). When the bubbles stop, have the pedal held to the florr and tighten the nipple. Top up the reservor.

James

 

My clutch fades really badly & the last engineer to look at it blamed the slave cylinder. Mine is not quite the same vehicle as the OP though, mine is a 1986 Range Rover Classic.

Changing starter motor soon, so I might change the slave cylinder at same time. It's on the rim of the bellhousing on the engine side yes? Is it on the starter motor side or on the other side (is access easier through the top of the bay rather than underneath?)

Whilst searching around for info I came across a few references to a type of doughnut shaped, internally threaded slave cylinder that fits on the shaft behind the clutch plate. Is that type only fitted to later models that came after the Classic, is it some kind of aftermarket thing.. or am I likely to encounter that type on mine?