Strange electrical problem on 2001 Disco II
#11
ok guys, i have narrowed it down a little i think.
I pulled the bcu, looked it over and found nothing. pulled the fuse box and found that one of the micro relays has a crack across the top, so it isnt sealed anymore. also, a lot of oxidation on the board. didnt find any burn spots or circuts pealing.
I did a little test, found that turning the rear wiper on, or pushing the central locking switch would make the light come on the dash.
I pulled the fuse for both and i do not have this problem anymore.
the pins for cdl, rear wiper, and start enable are very close together on the bcu, but there is no evidence of corrosion or damange. as well the fuses for the locks and wiper are side by side in the fuse box.
before i pulled the lock fuse i put my fingers on the relays while hitting the lock button, and found that i felt the one clicking and it was the one with the crack in it.
you guys think i should buy a new fuse block? it comes with all the relays and idm and a 5 year warranty for $75.
what do you think?
I pulled the bcu, looked it over and found nothing. pulled the fuse box and found that one of the micro relays has a crack across the top, so it isnt sealed anymore. also, a lot of oxidation on the board. didnt find any burn spots or circuts pealing.
I did a little test, found that turning the rear wiper on, or pushing the central locking switch would make the light come on the dash.
I pulled the fuse for both and i do not have this problem anymore.
the pins for cdl, rear wiper, and start enable are very close together on the bcu, but there is no evidence of corrosion or damange. as well the fuses for the locks and wiper are side by side in the fuse box.
before i pulled the lock fuse i put my fingers on the relays while hitting the lock button, and found that i felt the one clicking and it was the one with the crack in it.
you guys think i should buy a new fuse block? it comes with all the relays and idm and a 5 year warranty for $75.
what do you think?
#12
$75? Is this a used unit? AB wants $380 for an OE fuse block. How bad is the oxidation on the board? If it isn't too bad, I think I would replace the broken micro relay, clean the oxidation from the board, and see if that solves the problems.
Is there a reason for the excessive oxidation, excessive moisture from somewhere?
If you do replace the fuse block, you will need to switch on the ignition for 5 minutes to allow the IDM and BCU to re-establish their communications link. The vehicle will remain immobilised until this happens.
Is there a reason for the excessive oxidation, excessive moisture from somewhere?
If you do replace the fuse block, you will need to switch on the ignition for 5 minutes to allow the IDM and BCU to re-establish their communications link. The vehicle will remain immobilised until this happens.
#14
#15
I know this is an old thread but it is the only one I could find on the interwebs that has the exact same symptoms as my truck.
When I unlock my doors with the key, remote or dash switch the dash lights up like a christmas tree and the rear wiper moves a bit. If I turn on the ignition the wiper finishes the pass. If I unlock the doors with the engine running it kills the motor.
I already replaced the interior fuse box because the rear heated window was dead when I bought the truck.
Last night I cleaned all the grounds around the battery. Having a tough time getting the cable off the motor to clean but will finish that today.
I checked the ground strap on the drivers side rear of motor and it is good.
Any help with this would be great! Thanks!
When I unlock my doors with the key, remote or dash switch the dash lights up like a christmas tree and the rear wiper moves a bit. If I turn on the ignition the wiper finishes the pass. If I unlock the doors with the engine running it kills the motor.
I already replaced the interior fuse box because the rear heated window was dead when I bought the truck.
Last night I cleaned all the grounds around the battery. Having a tough time getting the cable off the motor to clean but will finish that today.
I checked the ground strap on the drivers side rear of motor and it is good.
Any help with this would be great! Thanks!
#16
OK so for closure for anyone else facing the above symptoms I ended up replacing the interior fuse box again. The integrated relays were shorting out sending power back down all sorts of circuits.
Replaced the fuse box and reprogrammed my aftermarket remote start and the wife is happy again. Remote start was disconnected during diagnostics to isolate the problem.
2 days later rear brake lines ruptured! Why o why do I own two land rovers! Lol
Replaced the fuse box and reprogrammed my aftermarket remote start and the wife is happy again. Remote start was disconnected during diagnostics to isolate the problem.
2 days later rear brake lines ruptured! Why o why do I own two land rovers! Lol
#17
Remove the unlock switch , and check the wires connecting to it as far down as you can get to ..... see if they tapped in to it ( connecting wire with tape ) this could be 1 of many things... because I Knew a guy who took AC current from a switch in his LR , and started having immobilizer issues for months...
Its pre owned , so you don't really know what they did before ...
And the problem starts with the switch... so start checking with the switch working backwards..( grounds , contacts , loose wires , wrong connections , door lock actuator )
this could be something so simple , but yet maybe so hard ... start there and i will follow up with you ...
Its pre owned , so you don't really know what they did before ...
And the problem starts with the switch... so start checking with the switch working backwards..( grounds , contacts , loose wires , wrong connections , door lock actuator )
this could be something so simple , but yet maybe so hard ... start there and i will follow up with you ...
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