Temperature gauge registering cold but red light is on
#11
You would be wise to monitor temps not with the factory gauge, but with a unit that plugs into the OBDII diagnostic port. This can be a code scanner or a device like the "Ultra Guage" $70). Then you will see temps heading up before the gauge will respond. Rovers do not take well to overheating, either in a "spike" or long term "slow roasting over hickory coals".
#12
I ended up taking to our garage and had the mechanic test it. He ran several tests on it and he was the one who ended up bleeding it correctly.
Been driving it locally only keeping an eye on the temp and it is working great. He also tested for a blown head gasket and thankfully it's fine.
The lights that come on now are related to the breaks, the traction control light. The abs and another light- they come on together, but if I restart the truck, they go off...
Been driving it locally only keeping an eye on the temp and it is working great. He also tested for a blown head gasket and thankfully it's fine.
The lights that come on now are related to the breaks, the traction control light. The abs and another light- they come on together, but if I restart the truck, they go off...
#13
Experiencing Same - Question
I flushed my radiator + bled accordingly for the 10 minutes as you stated Disco Mike.
1. Turned vehicle on:
a. temp gauge stays pinned cold bottom.
b. red dot light on and gauge never moves.
2. Had coolant temp sensor wires checked and straightened out when started second time by second person - then the gauge needle went up to top and then back to bottom cold immediately with 0 additional movement so turned off ASAP.
-No secondary signs of any overheating.
-No other issues occurring related.
*Could we not have bled properly or sensor - engine coolant temp gone bad
-Is there any suggestions to verify if has been bled correctly and done?
-What is best method to verify is sensor bad other then replace?
Greg
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dcaven (02-16-2021)
#14
I would get the codes checked. There might be a code for the temp sender. What I have seen in my personal experience on another D2: Vehicle overheated (a few times) the temp sender logged a code because it couldn't read the coolant temperature because all of the coolant had been lost. Repaired the overheat problem, bled system, and got the same thing: Red light on, and gauge not moving. Still had a code for the CTS. Cleared the code, and the gauge went back to normal.
#15
I ended up taking to our garage and had the mechanic test it. He ran several tests on it and he was the one who ended up bleeding it correctly.
Been driving it locally only keeping an eye on the temp and it is working great. He also tested for a blown head gasket and thankfully it's fine.
The lights that come on now are related to the breaks, the traction control light. The abs and another light- they come on together, but if I restart the truck, they go off...
Been driving it locally only keeping an eye on the temp and it is working great. He also tested for a blown head gasket and thankfully it's fine.
The lights that come on now are related to the breaks, the traction control light. The abs and another light- they come on together, but if I restart the truck, they go off...
#16
Had a similar situation on my 2003 Disc 2.... a worn-out water pump, belt fell off. My wife continued drove it for a little while. caused all kinds of light comes up, coolant boiling.
After replaced water pump, idle pulleys, tension pulley, thermostat, flush coolant, bleed/fill coolant. The red LED light on the temp gauge stays on, the check engine light is on as well.
Start the engine, leave on high temp, after few minute, can feel hot air blows out which is normal. All else are normal, coolant bleeding was good.
Checked the code, got several including temp reading out of range... I believe these codes came from the few minute drive after the belt fell off. So I erased all the codes.
Restart the engine, the red LED light on the gauge disappeared.
engine warmed up, temp back to normal.
After replaced water pump, idle pulleys, tension pulley, thermostat, flush coolant, bleed/fill coolant. The red LED light on the temp gauge stays on, the check engine light is on as well.
Start the engine, leave on high temp, after few minute, can feel hot air blows out which is normal. All else are normal, coolant bleeding was good.
Checked the code, got several including temp reading out of range... I believe these codes came from the few minute drive after the belt fell off. So I erased all the codes.
Restart the engine, the red LED light on the gauge disappeared.
engine warmed up, temp back to normal.
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JUKE179r (07-27-2024)
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