Water in engine not starting disco
Baja
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 7
From: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
Skogbergs: Where are you located?
Spike: Test the coil by the BITES method. Hold the spark plug wire in your hand while it is being cranked and see how bad it BITES you.
Skog, very few of us have that early of a DI, most of us have the 4.0 without the distributor and rotor so very few of us are that familar with them. A lot of the guys would prefer the simpler version like your 3.9 ignition system instead of the coil packs and the ECU controlling the Fuel Injection based upon inputs from a multitude of sensors.
Is it possible his inertia switch is the problem. Hitting the puddle hard could have set it off. We try to wade and cross much slower.
Yours would not have the scanner capability like the 1996 and newer that are ODBII compliant with Fault codes and live data reading capabilities.
Spike: Test the coil by the BITES method. Hold the spark plug wire in your hand while it is being cranked and see how bad it BITES you.
Skog, very few of us have that early of a DI, most of us have the 4.0 without the distributor and rotor so very few of us are that familar with them. A lot of the guys would prefer the simpler version like your 3.9 ignition system instead of the coil packs and the ECU controlling the Fuel Injection based upon inputs from a multitude of sensors.
Is it possible his inertia switch is the problem. Hitting the puddle hard could have set it off. We try to wade and cross much slower.
Yours would not have the scanner capability like the 1996 and newer that are ODBII compliant with Fault codes and live data reading capabilities.
Mudding
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 118
Likes: 2
From: saint louis, mo
I have 94 3.9L I did not let it injest water, but my issue sounds a lot like yours. it was running great, then one day it would not start, just crank. check fuel pressure and it was fine. Changed plugs, no go. Changed wires, cap, rotor, no go. Changed coil, no go. Finally I decided to check the timing. It was off almost 30degrees. Set the timing and she fired right up. Ran great for about 30 days and won't start again. Check timing and it's off again. Pulled the dizzy and there was about 1/2in up and down play and about 1/2in play in rotation. Ordered a new dizzy and she's been starting every time for two years now.
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Sounds like timing could be it!? Im gonna test if it bites me! I tested the compression today. Help me understand them.
Cyl. 2 - 4 - 6 - 8 = 150 psi
Cyl. 3 = 130-140 psi
Cyl. 1 - 5 - 7 = 120 psi
Does this say anything special?
Cyl. 2 - 4 - 6 - 8 = 150 psi
Cyl. 3 = 130-140 psi
Cyl. 1 - 5 - 7 = 120 psi
Does this say anything special?
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
Likes: 88
From: Savannah Georgia
Three cylinders are low. Tablespoon of oil in each and re-test. If PSI comes up to others, indicates rings. IF PSI only comes up a small bit, valves or gasket. With 1-3-5-7 being low or lower, could be gasket on left hand side of engine.
Those compression numbers (those 3) are low BUT they will not cause it not to run all of a sudden.
If compression was a issue you would have been having problems before this.
I still say it is the ignition control module.
If compression was a issue you would have been having problems before this.
I still say it is the ignition control module.
Correct, it will run with those numbers but it may lack power and use oil.
In order for it not to start your compression numbers need to be under 100 psi, typically in the 60-80psi range on 2 or more cylinders for it to not start.
In order for it not to start your compression numbers need to be under 100 psi, typically in the 60-80psi range on 2 or more cylinders for it to not start.