Hey everyone last night I was driving with my girl in her Land Rover no problem at all starting up. Keep in mind the Land Rover right now is throwing a Bonnet Open and Trunk Open sign since they are both not opening and closing properly (if anyone has any info on how to fix this would appreciate it) so we know that a battery issue could come into play with what happened. Started the car up drove to our spot and shut the car off. Maybe 5 seconds later we wanted to turn it on again and it would not crank over to start. Tried using jump boxes and jumper cables from another car and still no crank over. Ended it up getting it towed and just went outside to check the codes and I am getting p0365 and p0340.

I want to say im pretty handy when it comes to working on cars I am just so unfamiliar with this car as she just got it a couple months ago and have no idea where to start. I genuinely do not think it needs a new crank shaft sensor and it could be something minor but do you think I should start with changing the battery first and working from there? Is there any fuses I can check out or anything that you guys know of that can be an issue of the bat before I started throwing a bunch of money at this? Would appreciate any help I can get as I really can't find any answers online.

 

My first guess is that the security system is preventing startup because it thinks the hood and tailgate are open. You might try disconnecting (or shorting) the alarm switches to those two items. If the dash lights go out indicating it thinks they are now closed, the engine *might* start. If the engine started previously while this condition existed, then my guess is wrong.

I don't know if the CPS codes will prevent the engine from starting. I guess we don't know if those are old stale codes or fresh ones.

What is the resting voltage of the battery? Is the Check Engine light on? What is current mileage?

 

The hood switch won't prevent the engine from starting, otherwise how would you troubleshoot the engine? I start it all the time with the hood open while working on things, including oil change.

But the hood switch is an easy fix, you can replace it yourself or just short the connector if you don't want to bother.

I'm pretty sure it will start with the trunk open, I think I've moved furniture with trunk partly open and tied down. But not sure.

The p0365 and p0340 codes *might* be a malfunction with the sensor (or wiring too it). It also might be caused by low battery voltage. As LR2Driver said, it might also be an old code, maybe caused a momentary digital hiccup or low voltage during start in the past. Not sure if CPS errors will inhibit start but I kind of doubt it.

First thing with these cars and electrical misbehavior is charge and test the battery. Buy a new one if in doubt, a weak battery WILL cause all manner of gremlins. Then try a computer reset...

Disconnect both battery cables (neg first)
Wait ten minutes
Touch battery cable ends together
Wait ten
Connect battery (pos first)
Wait ten
Insert key fob (don't turn on)
Wait ten
Turn car systems on, but not the motor (with foot off brake, press and hold start button for a few seconds)
Wait ten
Try to start

My next guess would be the starter, mine failed suddenly, maybe around 100k miles. Not too hard to replace.

If you get it running, clear the codes and see if they come back after driving it for a while..

 

Me too, duh, total brain fog here.

Only other comment I will add is regarding touching the two battery clamps together to force a computer reset. Recent posts on other forums/videos suggest to use a 1K-ohm resistor between the battery clamps. This is supposed to ensure a gradual drain from the capacitors over a period of 15+ minutes. Otherwise, if a capacitor is holding a large enough charge it can destroy a fragile computer component, so they claim. This might not be an issue for the LR2 as this reset method has been battle tested already.

 

That's a good idea, certainly better safe than sorry. Cheap insurance.

 

So do you think I should not try that reset method just to see what's going on? I am currently sitting at 12.15v for my battery when it's sitting. Not sure if I should try to go get a new battery because I feel like thats high enough to get cranks to begin with. It doesn't crank anymore.

 

You can certainly try the computer reset. If you don't have a 1K resistor, you may want to leave the car sit for several hours after disconnecting the battery cables, and before touching the cable terminals together. At that point, there should not be much or any power stored in the caps to be concerned with.

I would think there should be a crank, if even slight, at 12.15V. Since no crank, the typical procedure at this point would be to check if voltage is making it to the starter. That means removing the engine undercover and checking voltage at the terminal of the Solenoid while a helper is pressing the Start Button.

If there is no voltage, then check if your starter relay and/or fuse have continuity since there should be power supplied to the starter.

If there is voltage at the starter with no crank, then you may have a bad starter. Or there may not be sufficient power making it from the battery. You can try again with a Jump from a second battery or jump pack to increase the power. If still no crank, you can try a Hail Mary and give the solenoid a whack to see if that jiggles anything loose. If you haven't replaced the starter before now, you are due anyway.

 

12.15 volts indicated a possibly defective battery. Have it checked out with a load tester, any auto parts shop can do that for you. A bad battery can cause all sorts of problems on LR2's. Its got tons of automation and not having enough juice can make it throw all sorts of weird, unrelated errors.

Once you check it and possibly replace it, clear all the errors and see if it starts. If you still get the p0365 and p0340 you might have to change the camshaft position sensor, or at least make sure the wiring to it is not damaged.

 

Im definitely thinking its a starter now the more Ive been looking at it, I have one coming in tomorrow same as OEM and gonna throw it on since it doesn't look hard to do. Once thats on gonna see if it starts if it doesn't ill go get a new battery/jump the battery and see if that cranks it over. Then I can start tackling any codes at hand.

 

Im starting to learn towards the starter as of right now because we did use jump boxes and jumper cables and nothing would get it to crank in the slightest so I genuinely do think its a starter problem at the moment. It comes in tomorrow gonna bang it out see if thats the issue then from there ill get a new battery if needed and then tackle the codes after reseting let them come back on.