That's one redeeming quality of the LR2 ... the starter is not difficult to replace. Nearly everything else is a PITA.

 

It is faster, easier and cheaper to load test the battery. Chasing problems on hunches is the best way to throw money down the drain.

 

It seems like that. If you have any information on how to fix the hood (bonnet open) and trunk being stuck not opening please share if there's any forums about it. Those are my 2 other things I need to tackle this week if I can get them done in a timely fashion.

 

If you are using a straight OBDII reader you're wasting your time. You need a diagnostic tool that can talk to the LR modules and retrieve extended error codes. The car will tell you what is wrong, but not if you are using the wrong tool. I have both the Autel AP200 and the iCarsoft tool for Jaguar/Land Rover.

The bonnet open sensor is a microswitch that can be fooled into thinking it is always closed. The rear lock is controlled by a module. Did you try pressing the door unlock and lock buttons in the cabin at the same time and waiting a few seconds?

 

No so I just go in the car and can hold both down for it to release? My issue is that the trunk is open but not opening itself, even holding the button and someone pushing from inside it does not detach from the lock so it's jammed somewhere. For the hood is just says bonnet open even though its closed.

 

Like I said, the bonnet issue is a microswitch. If you short it with something like a paper clip you don't have to worry about it.

I did not ask about one button, I asked about the two lock and unlock buttons on the dash. If you press them TOGETHER and hold them for a few seconds the rear hatch should unlock.

 

As flybd5 advised, performing a load test on the battery is standard practice. If you don't have one, It's worth investing in a purchase. They aren't expensive and you can use it on other vehicles, as well.

 

There are several issues which can cause the trunk not to open.

Common for the rubber switch above the license plate to fail. You can test the actual mechanism by either using the remote to unlock the trunk, or as flybd5 said press and hold the lock and unlock buttons on the dash.

Also the rubber seal gets sticky with age... after unlocking, try lifting the trunk by hand with some force, rather than letting it pop open on it's own.

If none of that works you might need to replace the latch mechanism, I did that and replaced the rubber switch while I was in there, not too hard. If the mechanism is failed and won't unlock, there is a way to unlatch it with a screwdriver from inside. You do need to get the trunk open to remove the panel to access the parts.

 

Ended up being the starter on it, codes are still away but more than likely will come back. Let me just say though when that first start after the starter installed man was it a difference!!! The battery was sitting at 11.9 volts and still cranked over surprisingly. Now time to tackle the hood and trunk issue.

 

Fully charge that battery and get it tested, otherwise it will just create more hassles. If it's 5+ years old, just replace it.


https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic14...ht=hood+switch

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic61...light=tailgate