Might be a leaky head gasket where water or oil is getting into the cylinders. That would explain misfires and moist product out of the exhaust. My Jeep Liberty had the head gasket start leaking water into cylinders 4 and 6 to the point where I even had hydro lock when I tried to start it. When I finally did get it started, it was blowing white smoke and water drops out of the exhaust and had an engine code that identified missing in cylinders 4 and 6. Out of desperation, I purchased a product called K-Seal and added it to the coolant. Within 15 min of driving the jeep after adding K-Seal, the white smoke and water out of the exhaust stopped and so did the cylinder misfires. This was almost 5 months ago and the jeep has never run better. I know this is a temporary fix (even thought K-Seal says permanent seal) but I'll take it!

 

D Warterson,

What SoCal wrote is entirely possible.

But before you go there lets start with the basics

You indicated that you changed the plugs.

Post picture of the plugs that you took out (hopefully you didn't throw them away)

Also I recently discovered (for an unrelated reason) that my LR2 wont idle if the MAF is disconnected (this isn't true for most modern vehicles)

Its possible that my MAP sensor is out of spec and it won't idle if MAP and MAF are both bad, if someone else with a 3.2 want to try to idle with MAF disconnected then we would know for sure.

The reason that I bring this up is that your problem could be a broken MAF.

Do you have a code reader? Are you getting any codes?

Good Luck

Paul

 

Paul,
Would you believe I am back with the same issue.
It is definitely load related. A/C on any higher than 3-4 lights, it will stall.
I have cold climate package and any time I press the front defrost button, stall.
Same codes CKPS and Multiple misfire. cyl 1,2,5,6

To answer your question...When I disconnect my MAF sensor I get a surging idle and it will eventually stall. Plug it back in and smooths out.

I had a local shop have a peek and they believe its the Alternator.
I guess these alternators can partially die and still let the vehicle run but under any kind of load, they get all kinds of problems. Looks like a PITA to replace.

Local guy having trouble getting the parts. Trying to decide if its too difficult to do solo....Seems like every time I say this, I end up wishing I paid to have it done.

Hope all is well!

 

Kevin,

You are still fighting it!!!!

I did some testing the other day because I am doing short trips and i wanted to see if my alternator would re charge the battery in less then 10 minutes.

My findings were that the voltage drops at idle enough that the battery isn't getting charged if I run the headlights and the heated seats. I suspect that the front defroster (I have this option as well) would be even worse. Note: my LR2 doesn't stall but the voltage drops enough that a bad battery would make it stall.

Here is my recommendations

1. Check the voltage at the battery on a cold engine before you start it (should be 12.2 to 12.7 Volts) post here if its not

2. Turn the engine on and measure the voltage at the battery terminals, at idle the battery voltage should be more than 13 Volts but less than 14.8 Volts (confirm that this is true)

3. Verify the wiring by measuring the voltage between the Battery negative terminal and the alternator directly. (Should be very close to the voltage you get for step 2, if not then the harness could be defective)

4. Turn on some loads to and check the charging voltage, turn on as much as you can before it stalls and note the voltage.

5. Measure the resistance from the Engine Valve cover to the battery, the best way to do this is to make a voltage drop measurement with the engine running. Measure DC Voltage from Valve cover to Battery negative terminal. This should be less than 0.200 Volts.

6. Repeat step 5 for the cylinder head, engine block, transmission, any exposed metal should be connected to Battery negative terminal and the the resistance should be low (measure the voltage drop and if anything is more than 1 volt you likely have found a smoking gun)


If the charging voltage from the alternator is more than 14.8 volts then rebuild or replace the alternator, if the charging voltage at the alternator is too low then it possible that the coupling could be bad as well.

The 3.2 I6 in our LR2 has an over drive alternator pulley and this pulley can fail and the bolt for the drive pulley can come loose. if this happens then the alternator won't charge. (it possible that the bolt could loosen to the point that it will charge under light loads and then slip as you increase the load)

LR025968 Alternator overdrive pulley


The pulley has a clutch inside (like a free wheel on a bicycle) if you replace the Alternator make sure that you get a new pulley (the alternator may come with it installed) If you do it yourself then you will need a tool to release the pulley

Here is the tool that I bought for replacing the pulley on my Audi (I think it will work on the LR2 but i haven't confirmed it)
https://www.idparts.com/metalnerd-se...SABEgIdD_D_BwE


Here is a video of the Alternator bolt that can come loose

Make sure that this bolt is tight if you take everything apart




Good Luck

Paul

 

Kevin,

Have you seen this thread on the Volvo Board?

Broken thermostat caused increased engine temperature, misfires and coil failure

Ignition Coil Failure - 2009 XC70

Have you ever replaced your Thermostat?

Good Luck

Paul

 

Kevin, and Paul (not sure how to include Paul in this reply)

Both of you guys are getting beer from me. You have left behind a priceless bread crumb trail for many of us to follow.
I too have been bitten by the beautiful lemon that is the LR2 and I'm dealing with similar fixes and codes.
I will try the relays and fuses today, and get under the car to check the O2 sensor wire.

Thank you for the reading material!

-Juan

 

Juan,

Thanks for the kind words.

Reply to this post with the codes that you are dealing with and I will try to help


Full Disclosure I now own two 3.2 vehicles

- 2008 LR2 3.2 (Purchased new in 2008)
- 2010 S80 3.2 (Purchased about 6 months ago, for my son to drive)

Same engine used for both

With that in mind you may want to look to the Volvo boards as well as the Land Rover Boards.

Here is a link about my 2010 S80 and everything that I've done to it in the first six months of ownership

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...p?f=31&t=87687

And here is a link to the items that I am tracking for high Maintenance for both of my 3.2's

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32504.html

And one last Volvo Link that give a very good overview of what goes wrong.

https://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...d-and-the-ugly

Good Luck

Paul

 

Paul,
Thank you for offering to help!

Mine is a2009 LR2

Current Faults are:
P003D
P0300
P0304

Pending Faults:
P0175 (This one was off for a while, and now it's back on, I suspect fouled oil...because it smells like gasoline. Oil change happening this weekend, I'm thinking gas from a leaking injector prior to the injector repair)
P0301 Cyl 1 Misfire
P0303 Cyl 3 Misfire
P0305 Cyl 5 Misfire
P0306 Cyl 6 Misfire

Three weeks ago, I had a cyl 3 fuel injector code. Tested the injectors for resistance, sure enough, 3 was out. Took the time to swap all of them out, since I was there. 3 was out, 4 had an obscene deposit buildup at the point where the injector and well at the block meet.

Changed spark plugs last week. Iridium with a .7mm gap.

Current Faults
P0304 misfire, P0300, and P003D are the consistent current faults.
Swapped coil from 4 to 6. Fault remained on cyl 4. (and pending misfire on cyl 1 came on...which had been off for some time)...

At this point I also have a strong suspicion with the connectors themselves. It must not be making the proper contact, suspected because up to that point the ones that had no fault at time of spark plug change had not been unplugged. Also, the solenoid plugs had grease on the connectors. Dielectric lubricant by previous? Unknown. I did quick wipe down, but I think a more thorough cleaning is in order.

Before getting my own hand in there, a shop changed out the cat. converter, and 2 downstream o2 sensors. Also changed out the 'cam solenoid', which can either mean an oil solenoid, or the cam sensor.
I haven't had a chance to test out the electrical levels per the lists you guys have provided in the thread.
This is from my cheapy scanner, but I don't have a firm grasp on fuel trim yet:

 

Juan,

I checked the wiring diagram and the Coil Packs have two different ground points

G1E123-1
Coil - 1
Coil - 3
Coil - 5
A Capacitor also uses this ground

G1E124-1
Coil - 2
Coil - 4
Coil - 6

Looking at your codes you do have misfires on 1, 3, 5

Its possible that the Capacitor for 1, 3, 5 is Bad or that the ground is bad

I believe that the Volvo part number is 31216100

Note: on the map the ground points are bolted to the same location (it looks like the cylinder head)


You also have a code for P003D

P003D - "A" Camshaft Profile Control Stuck On

Link showing a failed Solenoid https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33...light=solenoid

Note: The profile switching needs oil pressure to operate

In this case the error appears to be related to

CPS solenoid valve - cylinders 3, 5 and 6

The solenoid could be bad

Note: the orientation of the sketch the visible ports are the exhaust side not the intake side

If I had your problem I would switch the CPS sensor and see if the codes go from 3, 5, 6 to 1, 2, 4





Because the profile switching is controlled by oil pressure I would verify the following

If the Anti-Drain back valve fails then the oil pressure will drop

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic33006.html

You can test the drain valve when you replace the engine oil.

1) drain all of the oil out of the sump - wait 10 minutes

2) switch to an empty drain pan

3) remove the filter - approximately a cup of oil should drain out

If very little oil come out then the anti drain valve has failed


Good luck

Paul

 

Thank you for the awesome reply. I'll check on those items and report back.
-Juan