2008 Lr2 with reduce engine performance and codes P2103 and P2105
Hi!
My LR2, has hesitation, reduce engine performance, limp mode and codes P2103 and P2105. How can I check if the throttle body is damaged? Is there a test that can be performed on the throttle body, to see if it is working well?
Thank you very much for the help you can give me.
My LR2, has hesitation, reduce engine performance, limp mode and codes P2103 and P2105. How can I check if the throttle body is damaged? Is there a test that can be performed on the throttle body, to see if it is working well?
Thank you very much for the help you can give me.
The service manual indicates two possible causes for 2103,: 1. Throttle actuator control motor circuit: short circuit to power or 2. Throttle actuator control motor failure. The manual does not mention a P2105 error.
The throttle body is under the front of the vehicle, behind the engine undershield. These error codes point to a failure of the throttle body motor, but it could also mean the connector has come loose or is damaged, wiring damaged, or the throttle body itself is very dirty and the motor is working too hard to actuate it. I would try removing and cleaning the throttle body with degreaser or some sort of solvent. If none of this helps then you probably need a new throttle body assembly. You can buy one used for as little as $70 or new from about $250 on up. Replacing it is a DIY job.
The throttle body is under the front of the vehicle, behind the engine undershield. These error codes point to a failure of the throttle body motor, but it could also mean the connector has come loose or is damaged, wiring damaged, or the throttle body itself is very dirty and the motor is working too hard to actuate it. I would try removing and cleaning the throttle body with degreaser or some sort of solvent. If none of this helps then you probably need a new throttle body assembly. You can buy one used for as little as $70 or new from about $250 on up. Replacing it is a DIY job.
True, I forgot to mention that. The R&R is DIY but someone with the Land Rover SDD system will have to do the programming.
Hi!
Thank you very much for your recommendations. First I will try to clean the throttle body and if it does not work, I will install a new one. Now, in terms of programming, do I need to take my car on a flat bed to the mechanic, or can I go driving?
Thank you very much for your recommendations. First I will try to clean the throttle body and if it does not work, I will install a new one. Now, in terms of programming, do I need to take my car on a flat bed to the mechanic, or can I go driving?
It won't run. Might be cheaper to just pay the mechanic to swap it if you can limp it to the shop.
Well, now that we're talking about going to the mechanic to reprogram the throtte body, maybe I should have told you all from the beginning. It all started with the battery light turning on in the dash. Check the car's alternator with the engine running and the multimeter read less than 11 volts, therefore following the instructions in the three attached videos, I removed the intake manifold, changed the alternator for a new one, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the MAF and reinstall everything again. In the video, it is indicated that if the circular part of the throttle body is not pushed, it does not have to be reprogrammed. I followed all the instructions step by step, but apparently the DIY that I did was not perfect, because now I have to take my car to reprogram. As for the new alternator I installed, how much should the multimeter read now? I took the reading with the multimeter today and it gave me 13.98 volts. Is that a good reading for a new alternator? (The battery light on the dash, went off after installing the new alternator, only the check engine light remains on, which I imagine has to do with the failure in the throttle body) As always, I thank you for any advice you can. give me.


