Hello--I think I just need the name of a part.
I left my LR2 at the airport for 3 weeks and battery died. I have a parasitic battery drain that I have just grown used to since no one can seem to find it. Anyway, I had to use the actual key to get into the locked SUV. This is probably the 3rd or 4th time I have had to do that. I noticed when I did that it was very hard to turn. But I was more focused on getting my jumper. Got home, locked car and driver's side does not unlock with key fob. Put WD40 in lock as very hard to turn. Everything else unlocks with fob and when I sit in car and it auto locks I see the door lock. But no matter what I try it won't open with fob. Even when I leave the car unlocked it locks itself and I have to reach thru window or passenger side to unlock.
I read online to lock/unlock 3 times to see if that resets it but it did not.
So I guess I need to replace the lock? My O'Reillys said he thought it was actuator? Anyone know the part name?

 

There are a couple things to try before replacing parts:

1) Test your battery to ensure it's good. Low voltage can result in strange behavior.

2) Perform a hard reset on your electrical & computer system. Disconnect both battery cables and then touch the cable clamps together for 10 seconds to ensure a full discharge. Wait 10 minutes before reconnecting to the battery terminals. Then check if the locks are working correctly.

3) I previously posted some issues I had with my door lock. Not exactly what you're experiencing, but might be helpful to review.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...eration-65762/
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...e-pull-110146/

4) You mentioned that you have an ongoing parasitic battery drain. Suggest you measure it to get a better idea if it's really a concern. Waiting 20 minutes after you shut the engine off, with the hood up and alarm off, measure the current around your negative battery cable with a clamp meter. The rule of thumb for most vehicles is that it should be less than 50ma. The spec for the LR2 is even lower at 24ma. Mine measures at 17ma. If you are measuring much higher than this, there are methods to figure it out.

 

LR2 Driver,
Thank you very much for your detailed reply. I will try all those things this weekend.

As to the parasitic battery drain--I should first say that I had my LR2 for 15 years. In all those years I needed brakes and tires. Standard for 120,00 miles I put on it. Oh and a new starter. I love it so much that I had a 2017 Evoque and when I decided to get a Jaguar I knew one Rover had to go. I chose the Evoque.
Right about 2 years ago at 120,000 miles the issues started. I am now at 148,000 miles. I have had 3 or 4 new batteries in that time. Top of the line. One thing that seemed to help for awhile was turning the lights off "auto". But another time I went into my quiet garage and was walking by LR2 and heard a clicking. My liftgate was locking and unlocking on its own. I guess triggered by the motion of me walking by. Anytime I leave it undriven for more than 5 or 6 days I have to use my battery pack to start it. It has been to several mechanics and each time they say they fixed it but haven't. So many things I can't remember.
I will say I am fortunate to have another car, if this was my daily driver it would be an issue. All of this is just FYI in case anyone else is researching this problem. Plus I am a curious person and can't stand that I don't know the answer.

As to the door lock thing I will post what I find out once I try to your list.
Thank you again!

 

Don't leave the light **** on auto or the wiper stalk on the sensor. Start there...I have a 2008 which I always double lock but I read recently that the double locking doesn't really apply to my year class but future years. You can also check out freel2.com for the UK models and years. That place has tons of info on the Freelander 2 models.

 

NEVER USE WD-40 ORIGINAL FORMULA AS A LUBRICANT.

Original formula WD40 is NOT a lubricant. The "WD" means "water displacement". It is intended to protect surfaces from corrosion and the formula dries and attracts dirt like crazy. If you've been using that for any length of time in your door locks, it's no wonder they are very hard to turn.

The morons who run the WD-40 Company have continued to use "WD-40" as a brand, and I am very surprised they have not been sued for not telling people the original product was never intended to be used as a lubricant. It was originally developed to repel moisture from missiles in silos and protect the metal skins from corrosion.

Spray solvent generously into the locks so it can remove the WD40, then use graphite powder or silicone spray.

 

Wow! Thanks, that is definitely something I did not know and I imagine many people don't! Thankfully, I only used it once, this last time, but I will correct it.

 

Thank you! I am now in the process of figuring out if I have double locking or central. I will go and try the steps I googled. I have a 2011 LR2 HSE. I think it is double but surely not something I ever knew.

 

OK, I undertook the steps outlined but LR2 Driver above. Sadly, it did not work. So I guess it is replace the actuator. Will see how that works. Thanks all.

 

For general maintenance most locks should get occasional graphite powder. Keeps them smooth and reduces wear.

 

Before replacing the actuator, another thing to try: Use a bi-directional OBD2 scanner to command the door to unlock/lock. If it works, your problem may be something other than the actuator.

If you don't have a bi-directional scanner, you may need to pay a shop to perform this simple test. Or you could buy one. Currently, the cheapest bi-directional device is probably the Kingbolen Ediag Elite OBD2 scanner which is an OBD2 dongle that works in conjunction with an Android cell phone app (I have it myself).