2011 LR2 driver's door lock not working after using key
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Joined: Aug 2021
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2011 LR2 driver's door lock not working after using key
Hello--I think I just need the name of a part.
I left my LR2 at the airport for 3 weeks and battery died. I have a parasitic battery drain that I have just grown used to since no one can seem to find it. Anyway, I had to use the actual key to get into the locked SUV. This is probably the 3rd or 4th time I have had to do that. I noticed when I did that it was very hard to turn. But I was more focused on getting my jumper. Got home, locked car and driver's side does not unlock with key fob. Put WD40 in lock as very hard to turn. Everything else unlocks with fob and when I sit in car and it auto locks I see the door lock. But no matter what I try it won't open with fob. Even when I leave the car unlocked it locks itself and I have to reach thru window or passenger side to unlock.
I read online to lock/unlock 3 times to see if that resets it but it did not.
So I guess I need to replace the lock? My O'Reillys said he thought it was actuator? Anyone know the part name?
I left my LR2 at the airport for 3 weeks and battery died. I have a parasitic battery drain that I have just grown used to since no one can seem to find it. Anyway, I had to use the actual key to get into the locked SUV. This is probably the 3rd or 4th time I have had to do that. I noticed when I did that it was very hard to turn. But I was more focused on getting my jumper. Got home, locked car and driver's side does not unlock with key fob. Put WD40 in lock as very hard to turn. Everything else unlocks with fob and when I sit in car and it auto locks I see the door lock. But no matter what I try it won't open with fob. Even when I leave the car unlocked it locks itself and I have to reach thru window or passenger side to unlock.
I read online to lock/unlock 3 times to see if that resets it but it did not.
So I guess I need to replace the lock? My O'Reillys said he thought it was actuator? Anyone know the part name?
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 848
Likes: 227
There are a couple things to try before replacing parts:
1) Test your battery to ensure it's good. Low voltage can result in strange behavior.
2) Perform a hard reset on your electrical & computer system. Disconnect both battery cables and then touch the cable clamps together for 10 seconds to ensure a full discharge. Wait 10 minutes before reconnecting to the battery terminals. Then check if the locks are working correctly.
3) I previously posted some issues I had with my door lock. Not exactly what you're experiencing, but might be helpful to review.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...eration-65762/
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...e-pull-110146/
4) You mentioned that you have an ongoing parasitic battery drain. Suggest you measure it to get a better idea if it's really a concern. Waiting 20 minutes after you shut the engine off, with the hood up and alarm off, measure the current around your negative battery cable with a clamp meter. The rule of thumb for most vehicles is that it should be less than 50ma. The spec for the LR2 is even lower at 24ma. Mine measures at 17ma. If you are measuring much higher than this, there are methods to figure it out.
1) Test your battery to ensure it's good. Low voltage can result in strange behavior.
2) Perform a hard reset on your electrical & computer system. Disconnect both battery cables and then touch the cable clamps together for 10 seconds to ensure a full discharge. Wait 10 minutes before reconnecting to the battery terminals. Then check if the locks are working correctly.
3) I previously posted some issues I had with my door lock. Not exactly what you're experiencing, but might be helpful to review.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...eration-65762/
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...e-pull-110146/
4) You mentioned that you have an ongoing parasitic battery drain. Suggest you measure it to get a better idea if it's really a concern. Waiting 20 minutes after you shut the engine off, with the hood up and alarm off, measure the current around your negative battery cable with a clamp meter. The rule of thumb for most vehicles is that it should be less than 50ma. The spec for the LR2 is even lower at 24ma. Mine measures at 17ma. If you are measuring much higher than this, there are methods to figure it out.
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