Are you like me, tired of the repeated failure of the bonnet/hood microswitch failing because some poor underpaid sod of a British engineer installed it in exactly the best way for it to catch as much dirt as possible? Pissed off that it keeps telling you "Bonnet Open" and won't let you arm the alarm? OFF WITH ITS HEAD!

The microswitch is behind the driver side latch of the hood. Find the wires (just two to an orange connector), cut the wires as close as possible to the connector, then strip and splice them together. The switch closes the circuit when the hood is down, so splicing the wires tells the little Brit inside the car to STFU and not bother you again. The alarm also works fine now. Boom.

I don't need the Brit midget in the car telling me the bonnet is open.

 

Also the part's cheap and easy to replace, just have to plan on doing it occasionally.

I trust myself to remember to shut the hood, but not the wife.

 

https://www.freel2.com/forum/post335398.html

 

That assumes you want to replace the switch in the first place. I don't. It's schoolmarming brit engineering.

 

Just fix it with the redesigned part

or put a paperclip in the glove box

LR065340

Replaces
LR002794, LR024358, LR041431, LR054331, YUE500090, YUE500150

Cost about $40

Quote "Change the right hand bonnet lock, but make sure it is the newer modified type which was brought in to solve this problem once and for all."

https://www.landrovermerriamparts.co...MtMmwtbDYtZ2Fz

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic35334.html

 

How does one install the redesigned part? It appears to be designed for a slightly shorter cable. When I attempted to install mine the cable was about 1cm too long, so would not pull on the latch. I had to re-install the old part for now.

The part I have is "LR065340 Range Rover Sport LR2 LR3 LR4 Latch Anti Theft Hood Alarm Switch"

 

The hood alarm switch was a common problem for the LR2. It was my first warranty repair after I bought the car. TSB attached.

 

It's just two wires, you can extend them with a little solder and heat shrink tubing.

 

You can also jumper the connector with a paperclip and tape that over.

I replaced the switch a few years ago, been fine ever since. Problem must have been the switch, not the bonnet lock.

 

Yep, pretty reasonably priced for an LR part for a change. I got one for a very fair price a few months back from LR and it's sitting on the shelf to go in in the spring unless it acts up before.