The pressures are standard for any r134a system, as shown in the attached image.

Like an idiot, I had a shop service my A/C system last week because it wasn't as cold as it used to be. This, despite the fact that I have a manifold gauge set and have serviced many A/C systems before. But, I wanted to do the right thing environmentally which is why I went to a shop. Anyway, got the LR2 back and the A/C worked okay (not super cold, but okay) for about 15 minutes in 95ºF heat, and then started blowing warm with occasional puffs of cool air. Got home and used my Autel scanner which showed the high pressure side to be just under 3000 kpa, and the compressor was cycling frequently which taken together means that they overcharged the system. It was 90ºF by the time I hooked up the gauges, so I bled pressure off the low pressure side until the Autel reported right around 1800 kpa. Climbed back in the car and took it for a test drive. The A/C is blowing as cold as I can ever remember and stayed that way for the whole drive. Moral of the story - if you take it to a shop, take it to a competent one.

 

Good grief, that's more than an incremental overcharge! I hope it continues to work well after your adjustment, and there isn't another problem which caused the pressure to go so high.

 

Update: I could not find specs on this particular Evaporator Temp Sensor so I ordered a new one to make a comparison. The result is they both behave the same under changing temps.

As an NTC thermistor, the resistance increases when the temp declines. They measured approx 2.5K ohms at 78F, and 5K ohms nearing freezing. This precise scientific testing was performed in my refrigerator/freezer, so don't attempt to reverse engineer the specs from these measurements. It was just enough testing to convince me that my old unit works.

For reference, the OEM part LR003200 appears to be identical to a commonly advertised sensor by URO Parts 2108300772. You can pick it up for less than $10 online.

It was easy to remove/replace. The connector with two brown and pink wires is in the driver's footwell to the right of the gas pedal (see photo). I could access it without removing the panel. Use a small plastic trim bar to pry it off.

Now I have a new replacement as well as a working spare.