Can’t figure out cylinder 6 misfire
I am driving a 2008 Land Rover LR2. After experiencing some issues and a check engine light popping on, we read the code and it was a cylinder six misfire so we replaced the cylinder six spark plug and coil. This resolved the issues but after about six more hours of driving the same issues started occurring again and this time the codes thrown were misfires on cylinders 3,4 and 5. We proceeded to swap out the other five spark plugs and this fixed the issues for a few more days before having similar issues again. We then swapped out the remaining five coils. After now having six brand new spark plugs and coils and clearing all of the codes, we tried driving the car and it read that cylinder six was misfiring. In order to determine if it was because the spark plug or coil within cylinder six was faulty, we swapped the spark plug and coil within cylinder one with the spark plug and coil within cylinder six. We figured that if cylinder one then misfired it was a spark plug or coil issue but if cylinder six still misfired then it was a deeper issue. Sure enough, cylinder six misfired again after swapping the spark plugs and coils. Essentially, everytime we try and accelerate up a hill, my car maxes out at 30 mph before the check engine light starts flashing and it reads reduced engine performance. This has consistently been the issue that’s been occurring and each time we pull over and turn the car off and then back on. We are currently located about 1.5 hours from the nearest auto shops & are worried about the car even making it that far of a distance. At the moment, we just have no idea what to do or how to proceed next and would appreciate any sort of advice.
Without posting the code(s) you read all we can do is guess. Also, if you are using a plain ODBII reader, you won't get the advanced codes specific to the car. What reader are you using?
If you don't have something like an Autel AP200 I would suggest you get the car towed to the nearest auto parts store and have them read the codes for you. They usually do it for free. POST THE ACTUAL CODES HERE, don't just tell us what you think they said.
If you don't have something like an Autel AP200 I would suggest you get the car towed to the nearest auto parts store and have them read the codes for you. They usually do it for free. POST THE ACTUAL CODES HERE, don't just tell us what you think they said.
Could be a worn cylinder. What's the mileage? You might want to do a compression check. I did a compression check at 153k miles and while all were within spec #6 was the weakest.
Could also be a worn cylinder aggravated by some other issue such as VVT or fuel pressure. You'll need to check codes as flybd5 said.
Best case is probably a bad fuel injector in #6. Codes might show that if it's on the electrical side.
Could also be a worn cylinder aggravated by some other issue such as VVT or fuel pressure. You'll need to check codes as flybd5 said.
Best case is probably a bad fuel injector in #6. Codes might show that if it's on the electrical side.
Could be a worn cylinder. What's the mileage? You might want to do a compression check. I did a compression check at 153k miles and while all were within spec #6 was the weakest.
Could also be a worn cylinder aggravated by some other issue such as VVT or fuel pressure. You'll need to check codes as flybd5 said.
Best case is probably a bad fuel injector in #6. Codes might show that if it's on the electrical side.
Could also be a worn cylinder aggravated by some other issue such as VVT or fuel pressure. You'll need to check codes as flybd5 said.
Best case is probably a bad fuel injector in #6. Codes might show that if it's on the electrical side.
If all cylinders are worn, the new plugs and coils might have made the difference to improve the misfires.
I've read anecdotally, and experienced myself, that #6 tends to wear first on this engine so it might be the most problematic.
But as I said, fuel pressure seems to a potential issue and checking codes would be a good start. That fuel rail pressure sensor is a common failure point. I'd check codes and rule out fuel pressure, VVT, etc first but if nothing else is apparent I'd do a compression check. You can do that DIY.
I've read anecdotally, and experienced myself, that #6 tends to wear first on this engine so it might be the most problematic.
But as I said, fuel pressure seems to a potential issue and checking codes would be a good start. That fuel rail pressure sensor is a common failure point. I'd check codes and rule out fuel pressure, VVT, etc first but if nothing else is apparent I'd do a compression check. You can do that DIY.
I’m late to this party, but my money is on an electrical issue. I chased an intermittent but persistent cylinder 1 misfire on a friend’s RAV4 for months. Changed coil, plug, injector. Worked for a bit and the code would come back. Turned out to be a damaged pin on the ECU connector for the #1 coil power lead. Found it by finally busting out the ohmmeter and being patient. Voila! Fixed it for months now.
It has been awhile since I have gotten on here, but my car seems to be running not as rough as before , but still not comfortable driving it. It shows now after going thru codes FUEL 1 CL FUEL 2 CL. any ideas on what this could be? Thanks
It would REALLY help if you had proper LR codes. Did you get that AP200 reader like I suggested?
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