Does anyone make a complete LED replacement kit for the LR2, including all interior and exterior lighting (including high and low headlights, running lights, foglights)? Preferably a kit that gives me the option of choosing the color of the interior lights (I prefer red).

 

So, apparently there is no such beast. I put together an order for all the exterior LED's from various suppliers on Amazon for about $190 and paid $22 for an interior-only kit. It's all coming next week so we will see how it turns out.

 

I hope this one was in your Amazon cart. The Full Monty!

 

nah, that's too much bling. But if I could get it to project a Warner Brothers cartoon with audio, maybe Yosemite Sam, Bugs, Road Runner or Marvin the Martian, that would be WAY cool.

 

Man, it never fails. Every time I jump in to something to make a mod without a clear proven plan I wind up becoming the guinea pig. I should have known the LR2's lighting system can't handle LED bulbs without adding load resistors, I don't think they were even putting LED's in cars back them. Looks like I will have to add them to the stop light, side marker lights, license plate lights and probably the courtesy lights under the mirrors. At least they are easy to crimp on. And the low/high headlight bulbs? First two I ordered which amazon claim would fit my car are NOT EVEN FRICKING CLOSE.

What does work? Let's see... turn signals, front and rear fog lights, reverse lights, side markers. I have to order a bunch of load resistors now, unless I can find a mod for the CAN bus that will let these work.

 

There are several Youtube videos on this topic. But since they were made across the pond, you have to search on keyword "Freelander 2" instead of "LR2".

 

I've seen them but most of them are not talking about switching over to LED's across the board. Most of them are about the interior lights, or installing entire LED lighting assemblies from newer models.

 

The rear stop lights and front/rear marker lights will require load resistors. Turn signals and backup light LED's work just fine. Low and high beam headlights require the bulbs with none of the other crap hanging from the back.

 

Did I mention I hate being the guinea pig?

Ok, I had to install four load resistors in the back so far. One pair to the rear side marker position lights and one pair to the stop lights.

Now, this is important.

The side marker light on the rear shares a positive wire with the tail light contact of the stop/tail bulb. You need to put the load resistor BEFORE the point where the positive wires join (all bulbs share ground, brown wire). You then need to the other end of the load resistor to the brown wire. That way the load resistor will work for tail light and side marker.

Then you need to install a load resistor to the ground wire close to the stop/tail light connector and the OTHER positive wire that controls the STOP light. That will put loads on all three contacts and everything will work. CAREFUL: the load resistors get VERY, VERY HOT. Either use self-tapping metal screws to affix the load resistor to metal inside the rear lighting cavity. or make sure they hang in free air. Don't attach them to anything plastic. And don't touch them when they've been running power. You'll get a small but nasty burn. Just take my word for it.

Repeat on the other side (not the burn).

Don't bother changing the license plate lights for LED's. LED's don't work on stock wiring, it's huge PITA to put load resistors on that and it won't make you any more visible.

On the high and low beam headlights... DON'T BOTHER TRYING TO REPLACE THE BULBS WITH LEDS. The low beam won't work, no one makes a replacement LED D1S that doesn't require ripping out the ballast and associated wiring, which is a MAJOR undertaking, or improves on the Xenon bulbs, and on the high beam a good Halogen bulb appears to outperform all H7 LED's out there. Just leave them alone, or replace them with high performance non-LED lights.

On the fog lamps you CAN replace them with LED's and they work without load resistors. good beam pattern too.

Oh, and when you install the little LED bulbs with flat ends that slide into the connector, make sure the wires on the connection end are STRAIGHT and CENTERED on the glass. Otherwise they don't work and you waste an hour swearing in four different languages until you figure out that's all it was. (Yes, I can swear mightily in at least four languages, the rest of you will just have to make do with speaking in tongues.)

 

Further note: none of the interior lights require load resistors to switch to LED, because none are being monitored for burned-out bulbs.