My LR2 was running warm and I noticed the radiator cooling fan was not turning on. I read some threads about this and after checking fuses the next step in troubleshooting was to disconnect the wires from the fan control module to the fan itself and connect wires directly between the fan and the battery to see if it would run.

I did that and the fan didn't move so I decided to purchase a new fan assembly.

Before installing the new fan assembly I wanted to make sure it would run so I performed the same test. It ran for a second and stopped, even with the wires still connected.

So did I fry this new fan motor? It reads 0.3 ohms between the positive and negative.

Is that not the correct way to test the fan motor?

 

It sounds like you're doing it correctly. The fan should run with power applied to the fan connector.

Are you sourcing your power directly from the battery? I ask because I tested mine with a Power Probe style deviice and it ran momentarily and then stopped because the 10A circuit breaker in my device popped (easy to reset with the push of a button). The fan can draw 40+ amps so if you have any type of current limiter inline with the power source it may open the circuit.

I don't know the resistance of the fan so can't help with that.

Is this a brand-name replacement part or an eBay special?

 

It was a cheapo fan since the OEM price was over $1,000.

I didn’t use a fuse or breaker, just straight wires. No one mentioned anything like that in the threads. I believe the fan fuse in the fuse block is an 80 amp.

 

That 80A fuse can support one fan (standard on USA models) as well as two fans (more common elsewhere) for the dual fan model.

Maybe there is a problem in the fan connector and cable. As a last try, connect power as close to the fan power terminals as possible, bypassing the connector and cable.

Since the fan started for a moment and then stopped, sounds like a bad fan. I would not make the significant effort to replace the fan assembly if your new fan is not working with a direct power test. Contact the seller about a replacement and ask if other customers had the same issue.

 

Where did you apply power to test the fans?

The fan module is not designed to accept positive/negative at the input, it is only designed to accept a PWM signal from the ECU. You test by jumpering power to the positive/negative FAN SIDE of the module. You may have fried the module if you applied power on the ECU side of the module. You disconnect the fan from the module and apply power there.

If you did apply power on the fan connector and not the ECU then it looks like the fan is bad.