Dumb HVAC question
#32
https://miamibritish.com/shop/land-r...lr097253-behr/
It includes the evaporator with the metal hoses attached to it on one end and a new expansion valve on the other end, as well as the supplies for installation, such as asphalt tape, etc.
It includes the evaporator with the metal hoses attached to it on one end and a new expansion valve on the other end, as well as the supplies for installation, such as asphalt tape, etc.
#35
Gather around, boys and girls. Uncle Fly has a good horror story for you.
We got the service kit, and my mechanic proceeded to remove the old evaporator from the heater box according to the service manual instructions. What he found instantly confirmed the source of the problem.
This thing here is what's left of a line that runs from the evaporator to the expansion valve. What you see here is the end of the fitting that fits into the valve. It's been cleaned up a bit to highlight the problem. Hard to miss!
That is corrosion on the aluminum of the pipe. Specifically, a combination of pitting and exfoliation corrosion. The corrosion has eaten through the pipe, which explains why there was dye on the expansion valve and no refrigerant in the system soon after being recharged. But you can't see that if you remove the expansion valve from the engine compartment side, because it's on the side of the pipe facing the cabin. Closer detail with my USB coin microscope shows the extent of the damage.
So, $1500 later (mostly labor, the evaporator kit was $311, plus a few misc doodads), I have a working a/c. It's summer, and the car is still all mine. Money comes, money goes, but the cool cabin is worth it.
So now you know. Put some WD-40 all over that to inhibit the corrosion on all the hardware. Be generous -- it won't hurt anything if you slosh it around. Especially if, like mine, your car spent any serious amount of time near salt water (the previous owner spent a lot of time with his family in Cape Cod). Why this wasn't treated for corrosion prevention by the subcontractor who made is going to be another one of those mysteries...
We got the service kit, and my mechanic proceeded to remove the old evaporator from the heater box according to the service manual instructions. What he found instantly confirmed the source of the problem.
This thing here is what's left of a line that runs from the evaporator to the expansion valve. What you see here is the end of the fitting that fits into the valve. It's been cleaned up a bit to highlight the problem. Hard to miss!
That is corrosion on the aluminum of the pipe. Specifically, a combination of pitting and exfoliation corrosion. The corrosion has eaten through the pipe, which explains why there was dye on the expansion valve and no refrigerant in the system soon after being recharged. But you can't see that if you remove the expansion valve from the engine compartment side, because it's on the side of the pipe facing the cabin. Closer detail with my USB coin microscope shows the extent of the damage.
So, $1500 later (mostly labor, the evaporator kit was $311, plus a few misc doodads), I have a working a/c. It's summer, and the car is still all mine. Money comes, money goes, but the cool cabin is worth it.
So now you know. Put some WD-40 all over that to inhibit the corrosion on all the hardware. Be generous -- it won't hurt anything if you slosh it around. Especially if, like mine, your car spent any serious amount of time near salt water (the previous owner spent a lot of time with his family in Cape Cod). Why this wasn't treated for corrosion prevention by the subcontractor who made is going to be another one of those mysteries...
Last edited by flybd5; 06-06-2022 at 06:04 PM.
#37
No need for a special version. The original WD-40 is specifically meant to prevent corrosion. WD = Water Displacement, developed to inhibit corrosion on missile exterior skins in long term silo storage under less-than-ideal conditions.
#39
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post