Fluids suggestion Plz
#11
11-26-2022, 07:29 PM
I need to replace the coolant, engine oil, transmission, and differential fluid with the new ones in my LR2 2009.
Especially, I am looking for a stable transmission fluid (not a genuine one) and coolant.
I would appreciate if you may recommend a substitute brand or product over the OEM ones from your experience
(e.g., Honda transmission fluid is very sensitive to other products except the OEM fluid)
Especially, I am looking for a stable transmission fluid (not a genuine one) and coolant.
I would appreciate if you may recommend a substitute brand or product over the OEM ones from your experience
(e.g., Honda transmission fluid is very sensitive to other products except the OEM fluid)
#12
11-26-2022, 07:42 PM
In the case of the rear diff, the spec is dino gear oil. The rear diffs also fail prematurely at 80k miles or less. So I use a similar weight synthetic oil... my new diff has lasted longer than the first one.
Also... it's pretty clear to anyone who has followed this brand for a while that JLR specs their maintenance to keep the vehicle reliable for the duration of the warranty/lease, but not one day longer.
Last edited by merlinj79; 11-26-2022 at 07:48 PM.
#13
11-27-2022, 04:03 PM
Pro Wrench
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Audioslave (12-13-2022)
#14
11-28-2022, 11:01 PM
Well this thread was certainly timely! Today I was replacing my oil filter and moved the PS fluid reservoir out of the way to get access. Then I heard a "snap" sound (never a good thing) and noticed that I broke the small plastic hose nipple at the center-bottom of the reservoir. Fortunately, I placed a large piece of cardboard on the floor before I started my path of destruction, and that caught the spilled PS fluid and minimized the mess.
I was going to get around to replacing this PS fluid resevoir and filter anyway based on the discussion in this thread, but I was hoping to do it on my schedule when I had a replacement in hand. I can't drive the car until I replace it, so I ordered the quickest delivery aftermarket reservoir from Amazon which will be delivered on Sunday this weekend. I would have ordered an OEM unit (LR000578) but I could not get one delivered that fast.
I'm buying a quart of Pentosin CHF202 fluid at the auto parts store tomorrow (wow, it's expensive stuff even with the Black Friday 25% discount).
I understand that I will need to perform a bleed procedure after completing the install and refilling with fluid. The bleeding process simply has the cap off while you move the steering wheel back and forth to work the air bubbles out of the system. Then top off the fluid. Sounds easy enough, hope I get through it without breaking some other brittle piece of plastic.
I was going to get around to replacing this PS fluid resevoir and filter anyway based on the discussion in this thread, but I was hoping to do it on my schedule when I had a replacement in hand. I can't drive the car until I replace it, so I ordered the quickest delivery aftermarket reservoir from Amazon which will be delivered on Sunday this weekend. I would have ordered an OEM unit (LR000578) but I could not get one delivered that fast.
I'm buying a quart of Pentosin CHF202 fluid at the auto parts store tomorrow (wow, it's expensive stuff even with the Black Friday 25% discount).
I understand that I will need to perform a bleed procedure after completing the install and refilling with fluid. The bleeding process simply has the cap off while you move the steering wheel back and forth to work the air bubbles out of the system. Then top off the fluid. Sounds easy enough, hope I get through it without breaking some other brittle piece of plastic.
I did not follow the LR2 service manual instructions for a flush which estimated 4 quarts of Pentosin fluid. This approach would have been fine if I were using cheap Prestone fluid, but the Pentosin fluid is $25/quart and it seemed a little steep to flush away $75. I was able to remove nearly all the fluid using a small, simple hand vacuum pump (same type as for bleeding brakes). The only downside to this approach was that I introduced a lot of air into the system. It was a tedious process to burp it out by turning the steering wheel back and forth dozens of times while the front end was on jack stands. Eventually all the air was released and I used just under 1 quart of new fluid (the LR2 manual does not indicate the capacity of the PS fluid, but the close cousin Volvo S80 manual states it is 0.9 liters or 0.95 quarts).
Steering is smooth and the fluid is clean. All good.
#15
11-29-2022, 01:13 PM
I've found the easy way to flush it is by simply moving the steering wheel back and forth from stop to stop with the return hose diverted to a container via a separate hose. The rack itself functions as a pump.
You can also do it with the engine running, but the fluid moves VERY fast so you'd have to have your catch container rigged up carefully and be ready with a couple open bottles of fluid to pour fast. Not a bad idea to at least start the engine momentarily once during the process to flush out the old fluid in the pump itself.
I didn't have to try to bleed the system, because I never let it suck in air.
It's a lot easier with the front wheels jacked up, but can be done with muscle otherwise.
You can also do it with the engine running, but the fluid moves VERY fast so you'd have to have your catch container rigged up carefully and be ready with a couple open bottles of fluid to pour fast. Not a bad idea to at least start the engine momentarily once during the process to flush out the old fluid in the pump itself.
I didn't have to try to bleed the system, because I never let it suck in air.
It's a lot easier with the front wheels jacked up, but can be done with muscle otherwise.
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ThorInc (11-29-2022)
#16
11-29-2022, 06:20 PM
I watched several Youtube videos and saw different methods. What you do depends in part on what equipment you have and if you have the luxury of a helper to watch/fill the reservoir while you're turning the wheel with the engine running. I was working alone. Having the front wheels off the ground certainly made it a lot easier with all the back and forth steering.
I don't expect I will be doing this again on the LR2 for a while. But now that I've gotten over the first-timer hump and I'm more confident, I will change the PS fluid in the other family cars. Will try to avoid getting air in the system next time!
I don't expect I will be doing this again on the LR2 for a while. But now that I've gotten over the first-timer hump and I'm more confident, I will change the PS fluid in the other family cars. Will try to avoid getting air in the system next time!
#17
11-30-2022, 10:26 AM
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ThorInc (11-30-2022)
#18
11-30-2022, 11:16 AM
Got it. Any ideas on how to check the condition of the PS fluid? There are test strips and other techniques to evaluate the health of automotive fluids like coolant and brake fluid. The only mention I found for PS fluid is discoloration. But fluid can be discolored quickly by contact with the inside of the hoses, that doesn't necessarily mean the fluid is bad. I've found some rules of thumb like change the PS fluid every 3 years or 50K miles, but those round numbers seem very arbitrary.
Last edited by LR2driver; 11-30-2022 at 11:38 AM.
#19
11-30-2022, 02:50 PM
Got it. Any ideas on how to check the condition of the PS fluid? There are test strips and other techniques to evaluate the health of automotive fluids like coolant and brake fluid. The only mention I found for PS fluid is discoloration. But fluid can be discolored quickly by contact with the inside of the hoses, that doesn't necessarily mean the fluid is bad. I've found some rules of thumb like change the PS fluid every 3 years or 50K miles, but those round numbers seem very arbitrary.
I only bother testing engine oil in airplanes, or if I'm going to spend a bunch on upgrades, paint, etc for a high-mileage car, to make sure the engine is solid. But if you wanted to I'm sure Blackstone would test your PS fluid, if nothing else treat it like hydraulic fluid.
Engine oil suffers high heat and also contamination by combustion by products, so that's a different animal.
Brake fluid is basically only replaced due to moisture contamination, most other fluids (oil, tranny, gearbox, PS) get hot enough to evaporate off any water.
Also informed by the fact that I've replaced PS components on several cars but never before 100K miles. Since I got religious about changing PS fluid (none of my cars have a specified interval), I've had no failures. FWIW.
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