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Note: if you decide to try the following you do so at your own risk.
Here is what I would do if my LR2 wouldn't start like you describe
1. Put some gas in the tank (2 or 3 gallons should be enough if you are half full to start) so that the tank is more then half full (if the transfer pump is broken you may be pumping air and it will never start if you are)
2. Try starting one more time
3. Remove the MAF and spry a combustible liquid for about 10 seconds (carburetor cleaner would work) in the intake tube
4. leave the MAF removed and disconnected (the open hole will allow air to enter the engine even if the air filter is clogged)
5. Try starting the engine
If the ignition system is working it should start but it may not continue to run depending on the fuel pump and fuel pressure sending unit condition
Note: if you've never starter a carburated car with a spray from an combustible liquid then you should get help from a friend that has before you try doing this
Thanks Paul, I ordered this Fuel Rail Pressure sensor never even thought of that but I had a similar issue on another car and it seems easy to access. I am going to try this out and report back before getting into the fuel tank. Thanks again for all the help with this, will report back.
Note: if you decide to try the following you do so at your own risk.
Here is what I would do if my LR2 wouldn't start like you describe
1. Put some gas in the tank (2 or 3 gallons should be enough if you are half full to start) so that the tank is more then half full (if the transfer pump is broken you may be pumping air and it will never start if you are)
2. Try starting one more time
3. Remove the MAF and spry a combustible liquid for about 10 seconds (carburetor cleaner would work) in the intake tube
4. leave the MAF removed and disconnected (the open hole will allow air to enter the engine even if the air filter is clogged)
5. Try starting the engine
If the ignition system is working it should start but it may not continue to run depending on the fuel pump and fuel pressure sending unit condition
Note: if you've never starter a carburated car with a spray from an combustible liquid then you should get help from a friend that has before you try doing this
Good Luck
Paul
I have kept a boat running with carb spray, but never fired off a vehicle. So do I remove the MAF and spray into its spot on the intake tube then try to fire it or is it best to have some one spray while another is trying to start the ignition? I bought a fuel rail sensor that was inexpensive, so I am going to see how this will work
Last edited by jtray08LR2; Nov 21, 2019 at 11:24 PM.
I have kept a boat running with carb spray, but never fired off a vehicle. So do I remove the MAF and spray into its spot on the intake tube then try to fire it or is it best to have some one spray while another is trying to start the ignition? I bought a fuel rail sensor that was inexpensive, so I am going to see how this will work
So I am reporting back, I have replaced the fuel rail pressure sensor and I am getting the same result. My next endeavor is the tank fuel pump replacement. When I replaced the pressure sensor, fuel just leaked out of the rail line roughly 200 milliliters. Is this any indication as to where the problem may lie? Keep in mind this vehicle has not run in about a month or so.
Note: if you decide to try the following you do so at your own risk.
Here is what I would do if my LR2 wouldn't start like you describe
1. Put some gas in the tank (2 or 3 gallons should be enough if you are half full to start) so that the tank is more then half full (if the transfer pump is broken you may be pumping air and it will never start if you are)
2. Try starting one more time
3. Remove the MAF and spry a combustible liquid for about 10 seconds (carburetor cleaner would work) in the intake tube
4. leave the MAF removed and disconnected (the open hole will allow air to enter the engine even if the air filter is clogged)
5. Try starting the engine
If the ignition system is working it should start but it may not continue to run depending on the fuel pump and fuel pressure sending unit condition
Note: if you've never starter a carburated car with a spray from an combustible liquid then you should get help from a friend that has before you try doing this
Good Luck
Paul
So after replacing the pressure sensor, I tried to start with carb spray and it DID fire off but just briefly, it didn't run for more than 2 seconds but I am happy to see the progress regardless. With that being said, is there anyway to tell if it is the pump or sending unit? With the holidays purchasing these parts are taking longer than normal and I am also trying to minimize cost (but who isn't) if possible? Thanks for all the help with this, I will always continue to support this place
Thanks Paul, so I checked the fuel pump fuse and it is good. I do not have the fuse buddy so I will need to get one of those. However I removed the back seat to access the fuel pump and this is what I found, I would assume this could be affecting the pump or caused it to overwork and burn up? This looks difficult to access, there is framing around it and looks like it requires most of the trunk and back seat removed. Any thoughts?
