I belileve so. BRB... It will take me 2 mins to confirm.

 

Hmmm, so you're not even getting power to that fuse.

Just speculating ... the engine fault might be severe enough that the computer refuses to send a power signal to start the engine. An additional diagnostic would be a deep OBD2 scan for LR2 specific codes, not just the generic OBD2 emissions codes. Do you have access to an advanced scanner, or did you already run a deep scan on LR2 modules?

 

Tomorrow morning I am going outside with the laptop and retracing my steps. I just found a thumbdrive that has my OEM Rover manual. Ill try a reset again and then see if I can make sense of the wiring diagrams. I have to make a call and see if I can have it scanned here. Helps to have known Techs for 30 yrs. Thanks for your help and Ill keep this updated. Thanks Again!!!

 

So after fixing a loose connection on test leads for mulitmeter I retraced my steps. Yes there IS power on F15. On the starter motor relay both small terminals have 12v so I would assume that the starter button provides ground. What I did notice is that the steering column lock doesnt actually lock the wheel stationary. I am looking thru diagrams now but not getting anywheere fast..

 

Look at the picture of the starter in this thread:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...-108340/page2/


*** be careful with tools, chassis and the starter case is the ground so don't short any terminals to ground with tools or metal objects.

Do you have power to terminal #1? I believe that should be a hot connector to the battery, so powered at all times. If no power there something is seriously wrong with your battery wiring. There is a very large built-in fuse in the battery cable.

When attempting to crank, do you see voltage at terminal #2? That should be the crank signal from the switch/computer that activates the solenoid... if you don't see power there, then the problem is somewhere else, upstream. If yes, the starter or battery is bad. Get the battery tested before you get a new starter though. Disconnect the battery before replacing starter.

If the battery is good, you can check the solenoid and motor although they get replaced as a unit so it doesn't really matter. When attempting to crank, do you see voltage at #3? If not, then the solenoid is bad. If yes, then the solenoid is good but the starter motor is bad.

 

Soooo.... Had the starter tested, checked ghood. While it was off I checked inside and cleaned up the old grease, lubed everything up, installed new set of brushes. Just had the starter tested again and even soun ds beautiful. 32 amp draw on the bench. Now same thing once everything is back installed. Now the key FOB is stuck in the ignition. I am attempting to do another reset to see if I can get it to release my key. Tomorrow when I have another set of hands available Ill recheck to see if there is power at the solenoid small terminal.

 

Confirm that the transmission is in "P"? Don't ask me why!

 

Yes. Also my key dock got sensitive as it got older... when you push the key in to release it, you have to push and hold for a precise period of time. Just about one second exactly; any more or less and it won't release. It's second nature now but was irritating when it first started doing it.

 

You should try spraying some pure silicone lubricant or electronic cleaner spray in it (DO NOT USE WD-40, THAT IS NOT A LUBRICANT AND YOU WILL RUIN THE MECHANISM) and see if that helps. Don't use any other lubricants, silicone won't gum up and/or interfere with the electronics. And don't flood it with silicone spray, just give it a touch of it and try it.

The reason I suggest this is because the key fob housing can have all sorts of crap stick to it when it's in your pocket, in your bag, on your kitchen counter, etc., not the least of which is oils from human skin, and over time that stuff can accumulate inside the mechanism. It is much cheaper to try the silicone than to have to roll the truck to the dealer to change the dock, just to have them tell you they won't because it is too old or some such excuse.

 

Yep did that today. I hooked the battery back up the the key came right out. I had some dry silicon/teflon spray seems to work nice and slick now. So I am looking at the wiring diagram. I have power at the starter relay large terminal in the engine bay. Can I jump to the other side and power the solenoid from there to see if it cranks?