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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 10:09 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by UP49802
Yep did that today. I hooked the battery back up the the key came right out. I had some dry silicon/teflon spray seems to work nice and slick now. So I am looking at the wiring diagram. I have power at the starter relay large terminal in the engine bay. Can I jump to the other side and power the solenoid from there to see if it cranks?
I thought you said you already had the starter tested.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 10:12 PM
  #22  
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Yes tested,,, Then I checked the brushes and found them to be very short. I cleaned, relubed everything, planetary, drive end rollers, drive slide. Then had it checked after done. Just to confirm that from the starter up to the battery junction box is good. A place to start?
 
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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 10:27 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by UP49802
Yes tested,,, Then I checked the brushes and found them to be very short. I cleaned, relubed everything, planetary, drive end rollers, drive slide. Then had it checked after done. Just to confirm that from the starter up to the battery junction box is good. A place to start?
I still think you should replace the starter motor, it's less than $100 for a new one on eBay. If you think the starter relay is bad because you can't hear it actuating when the starter button is pressed, that only costs $16 and change at Autozone.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 10:34 PM
  #24  
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I am doughtfull that the relay is bad. I swapped the exact relays and no change. So if I dont have a relay signal (crank signal) to the relay is there a good direction to head?
 
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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 11:15 PM
  #25  
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This is the starter circuit diagram. From the ECM there is a single wire to the starter relay in the battery junction box, which when energized lets power flow directly from the battery to the starter through the solenoid and to the motor.


 
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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 11:31 PM
  #26  
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Yep thats what I am looking at. I think my troubles are upstream. I still have that relay "talking" from 2 locations right after inserting the key. It first clicks someplace around the column/driverside and then theres 2 clicks from the passenger side by the glovebox. It does that 3 times back and fourth. I dont remember that before. Also I was wondering why the steering wheel isnt locking when the fob is removed? I will verify that tomorrow as well.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 11:34 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by UP49802
Yep thats what I am looking at. I think my troubles are upstream. I still have that relay "talking" from 2 locations right after inserting the key. It first clicks someplace around the column/driverside and then theres 2 clicks from the passenger side by the glovebox. It does that 3 times back and fourth. I dont remember that before. Also I was wondering why the steering wheel isnt locking when the fob is removed? I will verify that tomorrow as well.
Right after inserting the key the steering column unlock energizes. There's a bunch of relays behind the glovebox related to the instrument panel and other electric components. The steering wheel doesn't always immediately lock, if it doesn't lock, you have to turn it a little bit to get it to lock.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 11:38 PM
  #28  
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Yes... I just seen in another post to maybe check the conections on the passenger compartment fuse panel. I DID have all that removed when I did the blower motor weeks ago. This one is going to make my head hurt tomorrow.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 11:41 PM
  #29  
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Oh! I didn't know you did that. Go check that all the harness connectors are plugged all the way in and are secure. That bit me once as well in the exact same circumstances.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2021 | 11:43 PM
  #30  
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Your kidding!! ?? What sort of symptoms?
 
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