My LR2 is a 2013.

I ordered another hitch and this one too rubbed against the bumber slightly. I took a chance and went ahead and tightened the bolts to the recommended specs. Though the hitch touches the bumbper below the fascia, it seems fine and wont cause damage. Hitch is staying.


Thx

 

Just washed mine today and was looking at the Hidden Hitch. Mine is a 2010 and the lower section (edge) of bumper just barley touches the hitch in a couple places, but after 2 1/2 years there is no visible damage to the bumper or hitch in these areas. It's solid and I have been off road a lot and have only touched the hitch once. The best part is a lot of money saved and no cutting required.

 

I've installed the factory wiring kit and went with a Draw-Tite hitch, but have a problem with the wiring kit because it doesn't light up the trailer. The trailer is known to be good with wiring and lights that work fine so it points to my wiring kit in the LR2.

Can anyone confirm that it has to essentially be activated or "turned on" in order for the wiring to work at all? As I understand it, it should work without being activated and all that the programming does is to turn off the backup warning as well as tell you when a light bulb is out in a trailer. I could certainly be wrong about that, but I do not know where to get confirmation of that. I'm sure if I contact a dealer they'll say 'yes you need to get it programmed, bring it in and bring $200.'

I'm trying to eliminate the possibility of a faulty wiring harness or electronics module before I take it to a dealer.

 

I installed mine and had it activated before hooking up a trailer so can't help you there. This is a stupid question, but based on the wonderful instructions.....did you buy and install the 40 amp fuse in the box in the spare tire area? That's the only thing I can think of, but it wouldn't surprise me if the whole thing didn't work until activated.

 

Yes it needs to be activated the kit doesn't do anything at all without being activated. I hooked mine up after installing the wiring kit and the trailer lights or my test light did not light up.
I actually had a bad kit too which drove my dealer nuts for a day or two. My second kit activated perfectly. but also did not light up the trailer or test light before being activated by the dealer.

It was just $50 for the activation.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I had it installed properly and had the fuses added in to the fuse box. The wiring kit does in fact need to be activated by the stealership before it will fire up the lights on the trailer.

$135 @ Land Rover of Sudbury, MA for a 15 minute job. Didn't charge it as labor by the hour. Charged flat fee for electronics work. Boo!

 

Stealership. I like it.

 

re: Didn't charge it as labor by the hour. Charged flat fee for electronics work. Boo!

Probably stealership screwed the tech as well on the labor split..... so more money can go to pay for computers and software subscriptions.

 

Deathwind, I noticed you said you bought the Draw-Tite, and from the picture it looks like the bars on the hitch are square rather than round. I have not seen that anywhere. Where did you get it and do you have more pictures of your Draw-Tite hitch?

 

Sorry lazerbrains,

That was a photo I found about how to measure and determine the correct drop hitch measurement for the correct receiver. I bought and installed the hidden hitch brand. Its been on the LR2 for 4.5 years and other than some rust, it works great.