Poor Starting Freelander 2
Hi all, I'm new to the forum, so appreciate any help in advance!
I have a 2012 FL2 with 80k miles (of which Ive owned for the last three years).
It has an issue with starting first thing in the morning. This is worse when its cold, but can happen in all weather really - only affects the first start of the day, when left overnight. Any other time it starts fine. It either cranks for 7-8 seconds, then starts. Or cranks, splutters, coughs and starts with a puff of white smoke out the exhaust - doesn't sound healthy at all.
It has been to a number of garages, who are all stumped. Shows no error codes (even on land rover diagnostic systems). Garages are replacing things by process of elimination, but nothing has made the slightest difference.
The following has been done in the last 12 months - new battery, new LR fuel filter, 4 brand new Bosch fuel injectors, 4 new glow plugs, new glow plug control module, new cambelt, extra earth from battery to gearbox & another to starter motor, non return valve added to fuel line, new camshaft sensor, new crankshaft sensor, EGR delete. Fuel pressure has been tested an is ok. Compression has been tested and is ok.
Here is a link to a video of how it starts.
Hopefully someone has a similar experience and can shed some light. Spent lots of money on fixes, but nothing
Many thanks
I have a 2012 FL2 with 80k miles (of which Ive owned for the last three years).
It has an issue with starting first thing in the morning. This is worse when its cold, but can happen in all weather really - only affects the first start of the day, when left overnight. Any other time it starts fine. It either cranks for 7-8 seconds, then starts. Or cranks, splutters, coughs and starts with a puff of white smoke out the exhaust - doesn't sound healthy at all.
It has been to a number of garages, who are all stumped. Shows no error codes (even on land rover diagnostic systems). Garages are replacing things by process of elimination, but nothing has made the slightest difference.
The following has been done in the last 12 months - new battery, new LR fuel filter, 4 brand new Bosch fuel injectors, 4 new glow plugs, new glow plug control module, new cambelt, extra earth from battery to gearbox & another to starter motor, non return valve added to fuel line, new camshaft sensor, new crankshaft sensor, EGR delete. Fuel pressure has been tested an is ok. Compression has been tested and is ok.
Here is a link to a video of how it starts.
Hopefully someone has a similar experience and can shed some light. Spent lots of money on fixes, but nothing
Many thanks
This site is mostly North America people, and we mostly have gas (petrol) engines.
There's a UK site where most of the participants have diesel engines...
https://www.freel2.com/forum/index.php
There's a UK site where most of the participants have diesel engines...
https://www.freel2.com/forum/index.php
That doesn't look like the dash display of a 2012 Freelander 2/LR2 diesel. At any rate, if the temperature is cold, never try to start it right away in the morning or anytime the engine is completely cold. Keep your feet away from the pedals and only turn on the electrics with the start switch. Wait a bit for the glow plugs to warm up and then start it. In fact, if you wait a bit, doesn't the "Check engine" warning light turn itself off? That would be a sign it's a glow plug warmup issue.
In addition, if your LR2 has the diesel engine heater option, use it.
In addition, if your LR2 has the diesel engine heater option, use it.
Adding to flydb5’s response, there is one thing I do now for all my vehicles…. first turn on the ignition without turning the engine over.
The value in this is “pre-charging” the fuel rail/system and activating all necessary modules. Following the completion of all startup sounds (whirrs, dings, clicks), then depress the brake pedal and touch the start button. Also, Diesels need the action of the glow plugs in the cold.
Cheers.
The value in this is “pre-charging” the fuel rail/system and activating all necessary modules. Following the completion of all startup sounds (whirrs, dings, clicks), then depress the brake pedal and touch the start button. Also, Diesels need the action of the glow plugs in the cold.
Cheers.
Adding to flydb5’s response, there is one thing I do now for all my vehicles…. first turn on the ignition without turning the engine over.
The value in this is “pre-charging” the fuel rail/system and activating all necessary modules. Following the completion of all startup sounds (whirrs, dings, clicks), then depress the brake pedal and touch the start button. Also, Diesels need the action of the glow plugs in the cold.
Cheers.
The value in this is “pre-charging” the fuel rail/system and activating all necessary modules. Following the completion of all startup sounds (whirrs, dings, clicks), then depress the brake pedal and touch the start button. Also, Diesels need the action of the glow plugs in the cold.
Cheers.
Sounds like some condensation may be building up overnight in the cylinders.
You didn't indicate if you park outside overnight and how cold it gets. It would be interesting to see if your morning start is smoother after parking overnight in a garage that does not get much colder than 60F/16C.
You didn't indicate if you park outside overnight and how cold it gets. It would be interesting to see if your morning start is smoother after parking overnight in a garage that does not get much colder than 60F/16C.
Sounds like some condensation may be building up overnight in the cylinders.
You didn't indicate if you park outside overnight and how cold it gets. It would be interesting to see if your morning start is smoother after parking overnight in a garage that does not get much colder than 60F/16C.
You didn't indicate if you park outside overnight and how cold it gets. It would be interesting to see if your morning start is smoother after parking overnight in a garage that does not get much colder than 60F/16C.
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