Where To Find an Online Rover Technician?
Dealer did not want to fix this 2008 LR2. I want to try to fix it for my cousin.
I'm a mechanic/technician(Not for Rover or Jags though). AUTEL MAXISYS ELITE scanner.
If I need to pay, I could.
Many Issues: NO CRANK-NO START
Key fob stuck in the ignition (dash)
B10A2 (Crash Input)
B10D7 (Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) key
B10E7 (Ignition ON relay)
I'm a mechanic/technician(Not for Rover or Jags though). AUTEL MAXISYS ELITE scanner.
If I need to pay, I could.
Many Issues: NO CRANK-NO START
Key fob stuck in the ignition (dash)
B10A2 (Crash Input)
B10D7 (Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) key
B10E7 (Ignition ON relay)
For the key fob, make sure the tranny is in park to remove it. Also heavy keychains can torque the key fob and create issues with insertion/ejection. I made my wife remove her heavy chain full of trinkets and just keep a house key...
Make sure battery is in very good condition and fully charged, low voltage could cause all of those problems.
Reset the computers:
Disconnect both battery cables (neg first)
Wait ten minutes
Touch battery cable ends together
Wait ten
Connect battery (pos first)
Wait ten
Insert key fob (don't turn on)
Wait ten
Turn car systems on, but not the motor (with foot off brake, press and hold start button for a few seconds)
Wait ten
Start engine, drive around a bit
If none of that helps, could be a bad key dock. It's not particularly hard to replace but you'll need to marry the new part to the car, best way to do that is probably with the dealer software (JLR SDD). You'll also need a "mongoose" cable and a heavy duty power supply to maintain system voltage while using SDD. There are threads on this on the Brit forum IIRC...
https://www.freel2.com/forum/index.php
Make sure battery is in very good condition and fully charged, low voltage could cause all of those problems.
Reset the computers:
Disconnect both battery cables (neg first)
Wait ten minutes
Touch battery cable ends together
Wait ten
Connect battery (pos first)
Wait ten
Insert key fob (don't turn on)
Wait ten
Turn car systems on, but not the motor (with foot off brake, press and hold start button for a few seconds)
Wait ten
Start engine, drive around a bit
If none of that helps, could be a bad key dock. It's not particularly hard to replace but you'll need to marry the new part to the car, best way to do that is probably with the dealer software (JLR SDD). You'll also need a "mongoose" cable and a heavy duty power supply to maintain system voltage while using SDD. There are threads on this on the Brit forum IIRC...
https://www.freel2.com/forum/index.php
Sorry for the late response. IRS made my cry for 2 weeks and still in pain...LOL.
Yes, flybd5, My Autel Scanner could not erase the B10A2....
So, besides the factory scanners, and the Snapon Verus, are there any others who could erase this code?

Yes, flybd5, My Autel Scanner could not erase the B10A2....

So, besides the factory scanners, and the Snapon Verus, are there any others who could erase this code?
If you really want to conclusively erase the crash codes, JLR SDD and a Chinese Mongoose cable with a supply charger. The cheapest solution along with the most powerful (not necessarily user friendly). Just search this very forum for more info. I run version V130 on a virtual platform as that was the last version that included the all the updates in the software for the 2008 LR2/FL2 but many here are also using V160+. And check out freel2.com for a thread on how to use "God Mode" or the more down to earth "Engineering mode".
I have the SDD and the Mongoose but I live in Massachusetts, otherwise I'd trade you for a case of decent beer.
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