Hey there!, wanted to share a quick and cheap fix to the LR3 cracked dashboard problems I have been reading about and I attached before and after pictures of my dash.

Please note, it's not perfect since it is research work in progress so that I do not have to shell out for a replacement dash. I only used 4 items to repair the dash: 180 Grit Sand Paper, 400 Grit Sand Paper, Flexible Glazing Body Filler and Rustoleum Fabric and Vinyl Flexible Black Coating, all in all, under $20.00.

Another option instead of the glazing filler, you can use Vinyl filler like FC21 or similar that you can purchase online for under $15.00. I wanted to experiment so i just used what I had in my tool cabinet.

Just like any body repair, prepare the surface by sanding it with the 180 grit sand paper. Clean the area with a micro fiber towel damp with rubbing alcohol to remove any debris left by the sanding process. When area is dry, lightly fill the cracks with the glazing filler just enough to fill the top layer of the crack and spread to either side of the crack about 1/8". I used my finger to make it easy and I made sure that it was spread evenly to avoiid any high or thick areas.

Wait about 20 minutes to dry then proceed to sand area with the 400 grit sand paper. I wrapped a piece of sponge with the sand paper to have a even flat surface for the sand paper over the area to be sanded. Sand the area until smooth or you can't feel any high spots or transition between the good areas and repaired areas. Like said, it's not perfect but the results were decent enough for me so I did not have to look at the cracks every time I entered the rig. It took me a total of about an hour and a half for the whole process and under $20 so I can't complain. As for the functionality of the airbags, that is the reason why I lightly filled the cracks so it does not interfere with the original perforation of the dash when the airbag is deployed. You will still see the outline of the airbag perforation area on the repaired dash photo but I'm happy with the result.

Just a quick share.

 

I know the cracking dash sucks and its crazy expensive to replace, but remember: these dashes are designed to separate in a way that when the air bag deploys, it doesn't send shrapnel into the passenger's face. By adding filler into the "danger zone", all bets are off.

 

I know what you mean that is why I used glazing filler (sparingly) that holds the split vinyl dash material in place without hindering the separation properties of the design. Most of the glaze material is located on top of the dash on either side of the cracks so that upon separation, it separates on the original crack/material perforation that is still visible on the photos. After the sanding process, most of the material has been sanded away and only a very small portion is left that is bonding the cracks in place.

 

Yeah there is no way that a little top layer of filler is going to compromise the separating design of the dash. Great job VegasLR3 and thanks for sharing! I hope this helps some folks on this board. I live in WA State where temps are mild and the sun never comes out (I'm ranting because it's been a crappy winter/spring) so I don't have this issue but I know that if I did, I'd appreciate a solution like this.

 

Not sure you understood what I was getting at because that isn't what I was thinking.

 

...then you are probably right.

 

Vegas LR3,

Hi, great post. Is the Rustoleum Fabric and Vinyl Flexible Black Coating a spray paint style application? When I google it that's what I see, wanted to be sure this is correct. The application of the Rustoleum Fabric and Vinyl Flexible Black Coating wasn't covered. Assuming this is done after the 400 grit sanding of the flexible body filler?

 

Yes, as long as it is labeled Fabric, Vinyl or Leather, it should be flexible since it has to conform to the movement, expansion and shrinkage properties of the material. It is like polyurethane paint used for plastic bumpers and trim. Unfortunately though, my fix only lasted for a year so I went the Coverlay hard dash cover route which looks great to me. I know some people would chime in and say that I should get the original dash but I like how this looks and it was an easy and cost effective solution for me.

 

Couple suggestions for improving this repair.....for the non-airbag cracks, I would use a powder filler (like baking soda) to fill the cracks, then set with a cyanoacrylate (super glue), followed by sanding, texturing, and painting. Best practice is to get a sharp razor blade and turn the vertical cracks into v-grooves by lightly trimming off the top edge of each side of the crack before filling. This improves the repair by increasing the surface area that the repair material will bond to.