Got a set on the way...

 

I noticed that the EAS doesn't always light up on the console. What I mean is, the right hand one, that indicates low range and high range is lit but the left side showing the status of what level lift the truck is sometimes not lit at all. When I pull or push on the raise lower switch there's a beep but nothing. The compressor I think is ok as the LR dealer just did a comprehensive report and said the exhaust was unusually loud... why do you guys think the system is going off line for me? Could this be voltage sensitive? I'm planning on putting in a new battery so maybe that will help but looking for advice from you guys.


Also, is replacing the control arm bushings as simple as it seems to be. Definitely cheaper that replacing the whole CA. Is there any advantage to putting urethane bushing vs rubber ones as far as longevity goes?


Thanx again guys for your help...

 

Give us a little more information on the EAS issue. When you don't get any lights, does that mean the EAS system is non-functional? Also, do you not get any lights at all? No current ride height light as well as no up or down arrow to indicate it's raising or lowering?

If the EAS is non-functional when this happens, do you get any error messages on the dash board? Any bongs or yellow or red warning lights?

As far as bushings go, I haven't done them myself, but have heard that the ones on the LR3 are a real bear to press out. That being said, they have loaner kits at auto stores that should allow you to press out most bushings at home. It's certainly a cheaper alternative than the whole CAs.

As far as poly bushings, many on here have made the swap including TOMR. The longevity of the bushings are supposed to be better than OEM, BUT there are always tradeoffs. Poly is firmer, so you will get a harsher ride. Since I already use E load range tires and have a bunch of extra weight, my ride is a bit harsh to start with. I don't really want it any stiffer. I also want my bushings to absorb "shock" when I'm offroading so that the shock isn't transferred to other areas of the car.

OEM bushings are Lemforder, so if you want to go that route, you can find the appropriate part numbers, or I can send them to you if you want. Also, I don't know if you're planning to do all bushings or just the LCA bushings, but the front uppers are supposed to be the most difficult arms to get on/off. I guess access to the bolts is severely restricted.

 

This is my first experience with LR EAS and because mines not functioning properly I don't have a reference point to compare it to....


That said, here's what I see. There is a light on in speedo gauge pod that looks like a truck with arrows over it left and right and up and down.


The center console system always has the high range icon lit up but only sometimes do I see a light on the left side for the EAS position. When I first went to look at it and started it up I could clearly hear the compressor running but haven't really heard it since.


Also, when I push or pull on the height switch, there is a ding sound but I do not see any warning lights come on.

 

Red or yellow icon? I'm guessing yellow?

Does the EAS work when you DO see the light? In other words, is it only broken when the EAS light is off?

When you are at normal height, there is a little bar that should be lit up indicating that you are at "normal" height. When you hit up or down, the up or down arrow should blink indicating the car is raising or lowering. Do you see the arrow or does nothing show up at all?

Regardless of anything else, the very first thing I would do is check all of your fuses and relays that are related to the air suspension. They are (are you ready for this?):

Fuseable Link 10E
Fuse 3E
Fuse 26E
Fuseable Link 11E
Fuse 35P
Air suspension Relay R225

If all is good, then my guess (and it's only a guess) is that it's probably something as simple as a bad ride height selector switch. Unfortunately, it's in a location where sticky drinks get spilled and in a location where water accumulates if the sunroof is left open during a rain storm. All this means that there have been numerous stories of fluid ingress into that center console area.

The center console is very easy to disassemble and if you know anybody else with an LR3, it might be worth buying them a 6 pack and a pizza if they would let you swap consoles with them to test the theory. Basically, you put the shifter in park, pull in the shifter button and pull the thing straight up... hard. That will take the shift **** off. Then, there is a small (T20?) torx screw under the e-brake lever and (depending on your car), there may be a screw under the little rubber tray on the passenger side of the console. I think that's it... then you just pull straight up, evenly, all around it.

An alternative would be to try to jump the wires and see what happens. Most of the wires that go into the switch are all just hot wires for the different LED lights... you don't really care about those. However, there are pink and black (for raising) and white and black (for lowering) wires and also an all black ground wire. If you can provide a momentary jumper between the "pink and black" and "all black" wires, then I think your truck should try to raise itself up. Of course, never having done this, I assume no liability if your truck blows up as a result.

 

Look in the tech section for poly bush conversion, while in there do the ball joints , super cheap and stupid easy, snap ring and they fall off

Rubber bushings last about 50k ? And you are not putting in new rubber without land rovers tool or inginuity
Rides not that bad, my wife does not complain and its her car lol, I do have slightly over stock tires but not large enough to need a lift

 

yes, yellow



Not sure... truck is at shop but the first time I looked at the vehicle, the compressor came on and I was able to lower the suspension. The 'normal height' bar I have only seen once since but couldn't say if suspension was operable.



The first time, when I know the compressor was running, I didn't notice if the arrow flashed or not. I am assuming it did as the suspension did drop.

 

What is this special tool you speak of? I have access to a hydraulic press and can fab up a press tool if that's what it is... thanx.


Also, while I have you... does the truck need an alignment after control arm replacement? I'm doing the inner/outer tie rods so it will need an alignment after that but was planning on the bushings down the road as they weren't identified as much of an issue right now. Will definitely do the ball joints at that time...

 

I will also post this question in the LR3 section as it's getting no responses in General Tech...


Can my local shop do the alignment if I put the truck in tight tolerance mode? They use the latest laser alignment machine...


Is there any danger in getting an alignment without being in lock down mode or is it just more accurate?... thanx for helping out.

 

Goto Dealer, I tried Firestone and they royaly f it up

Must be in tight tolarance locked or it moves while they are aligning it also may need steering angle reset in ecu

Plus one of my bolts came loose dealer realigned for free