Hello, I've been lurking here pulling information and I've finally landed on the opportunity to make a thread!

I have a 2005 4.4L SE with 137k miles.

About two months ago, I started having longer start times in the morning.

I immediately replaced a battery that was a little over 3+ years old from the previous owner. The next day I had no crank, no start issues. Battery read 12.56v at the terminals.

I would get a "click" that sounded like it was coming from the passenger side fuse box area. A few tries and I could get the starter crank and it would turn over. After getting to work, she would start up fine at lunch and in the afternoon to go home. Never a fault or light on the dash.

Over the course of the month, every morning seemed to get a little harder to start, especially when the temps dropped. At first, if it was over 37-40F it would start (long crank or normal crank), and be fine at repeated starts until the next cold start in the morning.

Edit: Two times, I was able to get the rig to crank and no start, to which it threw a transmission fault. One time it weakly cranked and started threw the fault and put itself into safe mode. Fault would reset on it's own. Not sure if that's helpful...

A few weeks ago, even when the temps were right it was a crap shoot. I bought a new starter and planned to put it in but never had the time. Finally paid a garage to put it in. They did some quick diagnostic, like smacking the solenoid and couldn't get it to start, before they replaced it, after which, it started fine (it was a warm day and inside the garage half the day). I paid and drove home after running errands, no issue. The starter cranked noticeably faster.

Next morning, no crank no start. I pulled the Starter Motor Relay (R18) from the engine fuse box and took it to work. Tested it for continuity and ran power through it. Clicked fine. Swapped it with the Headlight Washer Relay just to test. Still nothing.

Here's where things get interesting. Decided to bypass the relay to test the wiring/connector to the starter from the fuse. Touched wire on 3 and 5 for the relay and it started up normally.

I bought a test light to start looking for bad power/ground next.

Anyone had this issue or know what I should be looking at?

I have the GAP tool and it has some faults but nothing "starter" or "ignition" related, mostly ventilation or seat heater faults...I'll run it again tomorrow morning if you think it would be helpful.

Luckily I have the workshop manual and work with a electrical engineer and a guy that has a 2006 LR3, but all the heads are better than a couple.

Thank you!

 

Hmmm, if bypassing the relay worked, I'd try a new relay just in case. Also inspect the connections and the wires going into the back of the box for it, could have a loose wire .

Also, make sure the ground strap connection. They're known for getting loose at the body or corroded to the point of throwing electrical gremlins.

I'd also make sure the crank position sensor isn't dying on you.

 

Well your symptoms describe a faulty starer solenoid with bad contacts. The replacement starter was in fact new or rebuilt, correct?? Not a used one? And battery is new too, not used?

I would check your primary fuse, in the flat black box right by the positive battery post.

 

I swapped the relay, so I don't think it's that. But I will check the ground and the crank position sensor was going to be my next guess. Thanks!

 

Yep, it was a new starter and a new battery. Will check on the primary fuse, thanks!

 

Besides grounds, could also of course be primary battery cables having a problem somewhere

 

Hey, I have the exactly same problem. With only difference that after replacing the starter the car isn’t cranking at all even by passing the starter relay. Were you able to find out the problem? Thanks!

 

How is the battery terminal connector? My connector on the rescue rover was not able to make a proper connection at the terminal and I replaced it, which made a huge difference in my cranking ability.
Bad terminals can pass 13.7v at DVMM measurement level but may not deliver the big current needed for starting.