Unlike the Bosch and GEMS systems where it's a tell tale if the MIL stays illuminated during cranking with a bad CKP, the Denso system for the AJ motors does not. The MIL is extinguished after cranking once the PCM accepts that the engine has started and is running, not just based on flywheel speed.

Also, engine speed is reported on the high speed CAN, and can be viewed during cranking with the right equipment, but most generic scanners will shut down during cranking without an external power supply. Again, the RPM that is sent, comes from the PCM, but is not as pure of a CKP reading as it is on the older vehicles. It's a calculated value, not a direct output.

 

O.k. I read some info on the crank sensor and I think for the price I'll roll the dice. But I need to know if I need to buy one from Land Rover or are the ones I can pick up at the local parts store just as good?

 

With the CKP, I'd get a Denso one, from Rover if you can't find it anywhere else. But, like I said, I've never seen a CKP fail in the manner that you've described.

I'd say, if it's not an electrical issue with the busses which it doesn't seem to be, I'd be looking at fuel pressure and the ignition capacitor.

Also, there was a software glitch in some of the early 05s that caused a stall, but only in very particular conditions... basically you would need to be descending a hill for over 30 seconds, and then press the brakes, but not come to a stop. It would cut fuel in half when the torque converter unlocked, and then another 50% when the brakes were pressed. But any software update since 06 would have taken care of that issue.

 

So basically in the 9 months since you've started this thread,
You have not had the complete vehicle scanned for fault codes
or checked the fuel pressure?
I think it's time to bring it to a professional....Don't you?

 

I'm checking the fuel pressure this week and I'm ordering an ignition capacitor on Monday. Hey, threalassmikeg, as far as not taking it in for a professional to check, I don't have the time to be without my car nor do I have the money to throw at an unknown amount of diagnostic hours. I'm a pretty avid 'do it yourselfer' and I've always been pretty proud about fixing my own vehicle, house, electronics etc. Trial and error, experimentation and failure is how we learn. After this experience I will be just that much more knowledgeable.

 

Just fyi because most dealerships will be confused when you ask for the capacitor (microcat calls it a RF supressor) but the part number is

LR004160

 

I finally had some time to test the fuel pressure but there is no schreader port. Question is; can I cut the fuel line at the rail and put a Ford schreader adapter inline using typical hose clamps? Because the tester I rented from the parts store has one in it. It's a "T" piece of what appears to be brass with hose barbs on either end and a port in the middle. Also if I can't do that can I use a regular spring clamp tool to remove the fuel line or do I need a Land Rover tool? If I can just use a regular spring clamp tool what size? I only have 3/8 on hand and it's too small.

 

It is a 5/8" fitting, I recommend not cutting the line for two reasons. First off, there is no reason to create the possibility of a fuel leak, And secondly, the way the line runs, you won't have much room, without making a pretty tight bend in the hose and possibly kinking it.

05 should have a schreader valve, that is a little strange.

 

Checked the fuel pressure it was 65 psi so that's good. But even better I installed a new ignition capacitor. The one I received looked different from the one on the 3 so I guess they redesigned it??? Any how, I noticed an immediate improvement in performance. No hesitation at the pedal, better feel at the wheel (not as stiff), smoother acceleration and gear changes. I took to the road seeking out potholes, curbs, quick stops, jack rabbit starts off the light, quick/hard turns etc, etc. The 3 is running like a CHAMP!!! I'm still crossing my fingers and I'll post an update after a few hundred more miles. Thanks to all for your help. You got me out of a costly diagnostic nightmare at the dealer with a $24 part.

 

If anyone is interested I was able to check the fuel pressure without the special tool by removing the hose clamp from the steel feeder tube at the rear of the engine using a flat head screwdriver to undo the clamp and pry it off. Then I clamped a piece of fuel line to the feeder line. On the other end I used the "T" fitting I mentioned in the previous post. I connected that setup to the end of the fuel line that was originally connected to the steel feeder. I really had to tighten the screw driven hose clamps because the "T" fitting was for 3/8" hose. After I was done I re-clamped the hose with the original style clamp from Land Rover rather than a generic one just to be safe (I figure a couple bucks well invested).