Here's some info on the injection system. Lots of electrical connections, plenty of codes that can be created, and a fuel pressure that can be tested at the fuel rail, expect about 65 PSI. There are also accumulators built into the system so that minor surges are smoothed out. So without check engine lights, something simple like low fuel pressure could be a place to start.

 

That was my thought as well. I didn't do a pressure test but i did pull all the injectors and pressure cleaned them with a set up I built off of youtube. All but one were good. The bad one was just slightly clogged and had a weak spray pattern that was resolved by blowing some cleaner through it. I'm going to pressure test it as soon as I can get some free time. Do you think this could have anything to do with the computer? Ive been doing some research and have been led to believe my software may be corrupt. Is this more likely or less likely to be causing my issue?

 

Have you done the TB/Maf cleaning?

I reported it "might" have resolved it on page 2 - Went offroading 2 more times and yes it has infact solved my problem.

 

A throttle body cleaning will resolve a stall when the engine bogs down, which does happen a good amount when in low range, but during normal driving should not have much to do with it, unless it is only happening when coming to a quick stop or something like that.
For a more drawn out stall I would be checking two things. First off the fuel pump, there were issues with the crossover tube from the jet pump that goes into the swirl pot coming dislodged (i know that makes no sense, I'll try to find a picture).
I would replace the ignition capacitor, it's cheap and easy, but I don't see that causing the symptoms before it stalls. The only other thing I am thinking would be if the CAN bus is going down, but that should give you just about every warning light you have when it does.

In the picture, the above mentioned hose is the one coming in from the left that is clipped in place, but not really attached to anything. Should only cause issues when down to 1/4 tank or so though.

 

I just have a couple questions. First, where is the Ignition Capacitor? I can't find any info on it. Second, Is there a way to disconnect the fuel line from the rail without cutting it? I read the procedure that is indicated for checking the fuel pressure but it is a bit confusing because I don't see any way to get the fuel line disconnected from the fuel rail without cutting it as I'm looking at it.

 

Thanks Mack73. I did check the MAF and throttle body. They were pretty clean but I gave them a good spraying down anyhow.

 

The fuel line connects at the rear drivers side of the engine, you need an adapter to remove it from the rail, and another fitting to test pressure there. That said, a '05 should have a schreader valve on the passenger's side of the fuel rail, about quarter of the way back, usually has a blue cap on it.
The ignition capacitor is located at the rear of the engine, on the passenger's side, somewhat between the valve cover and the intake, held in place with a 8mm bolt, and has a 4 pin, 3 wire connector.

However when the capacitor fails, it usually will cause a pretty immediate stall.

 

any word on the crank position sensor? Might be worth looking into cause a failing sensor can cause some of your symptoms (frequent stalling, have to wait afew minutes or longer to start up again) etc. Might also be worth while to give Rovers North and Atlantic British a call and get their advice.

Rovers North: 1-800-403-7591
Atlantic British: 1-800-533-2210

 

Crank sensors don't fail very often on the AJ engines, not like a discovery. The times that I have seen them fail, they are all the way dead, no start, and are not going to start until repaired, but it seems like you may be getting close to running out of options.

 

If CKP was the problem, in addition to no spark, would there be other indicators like rpm on scanner when cranking, or certain dash display changes?