Hello, I am back with an update on my 2006 LR 3 EAS issue. So I believe the last time I posted I was working to get a new compressor through my warranty. Well, I finally got that sorted and installed the new compressor and at least now I have a working unit! Hooray! But unfortunately I am still experiencing an issue with Air suspension. So basically what seems to be happening is that as the compressor fills the system, the passenger side rear air bag keeps filling and will be much higher than any other corner. Also, once all of the air bags are basically filled, once I shut the car off it gradually will sink to the stops, especially in the back, both sides. One of the codes I see said something about a stuck corner valve. I am thinking it is probably that rear unit that just keeps filling and lifting? And then I am wondering if it is stuck, does that mean that there is also a leak there? I guess I need to do some leak detection on the valve blocks and the lines where they enter the air bags, but was just wondering if anyone had any advice? Also I should add that I am getting an EAS code and the yellow check light keeps coming on for this. When I try to calibrate the system, then the red check light comes on for EAS.

 

Have you looked into the valve blocks at all? From how you are describing your problem, it seems like the blocks are letting air into the springs without any sort of control and then when you shut it off the air leaks back into the resevoir.
You have 176K on it-you might try rebuilding the valve blocks, all 3 of them, or replace them. Some here will tell you that you have to use genuine LR valves, I replaced mine with cheap cheerfull Chitaniums along with the compressor and front springs and at 193K my suspension hasn't done stupid stuff in forever.

At the very least, take all 3 out and clean them . Also do not mix them up, this may be another problem you are having.

You have a Gap diagnostic or the equivilant? Owning a LR3 without one is pointless.

 

Thank you for your thoughtful reply. So I actually have rebuilt the center or main valve block and the rear one, and I had to replace the front one as there was a very stuck piston. And I replaced that front one with a unit from Amazon or EBay, so not a “factory” unit. And I do have the GAP tool as well as a Foxwells unit, and interestingly the Gap tool does not seem to pick up the same codes as the Foxwells. And the Foxwells will give a little more info as to possible cause, but I’m still not quite able to pin down what is causing the problem. The one code that seems pretty consistent is that the reservoir fills up too slowly, and then the yellow EAS check light comes on the dash. I probably should have said that before. I can raise each of the corners with the Gap tool in the calibration mode or the test valve mode, but the left side of the vehicle always tends to want to be lower than the right side. I think I’m going to take it to my local garage to see what they can come up with. They have done some other work on it for me.

 

OK-before you run off to the shop, let's check out a couple items.
Since you have the Gap, which I am familiar with, you can check the gallery pressure, which should top out at 255 psi, but might be closer to 225. If you can't get to that level, it could be your resevoir has a leak.

You should get sone indication of what the vehicle *thinks* it is heightwise-could be the right rear height sensor has come out of the bracket or the lever has popped out of the arm (that has happened to me). There is a test function by which you can raise the corners individually and there will be a reading that could be 0, plus or minus some number-if one is way out you'd look there. I have also used that function to manually raise my LR3 when my compressor went completely fubar with an air compressor, kept me going until the replacement arrived.

Good luck!

 

Thank you so much, this is very helpful and I will give this things a try!
Thank you again.

 

Okay, just checked the gallery pressure at start up, amber or yellow light for suspension was on the dash, compressor not running and it was at 70 psi. I read the codes and suspension code as follows:C1A20-64. Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir.
I also had a transfer case fault: P0902-00 (2F) Clutch actuator circuit low
After I Cleared these the compressor started working and the gallery pressure went all the way up to over 200, at least 225, and maybe did top out at 255.
I had to go to the valve test part of app though as the right rear corner maxed out all the way< probably what it does when you use the far right special program of climbing over a rock, And speaking of special programs, they also do not work and the indicator light for those is off. so both rear corners were very high, now as I have been sitting here the fronts look normal for the first time in months and the back is slowly sinking.
Okay the corners read as follows from Gap tool
LF: 17. RF: 6. LR: 4. RR: -23
So it seems you are correct about something being out of whack with that Right rear corner. I will check the sensor tomorrow.
Another weird thing just happened. I cleared all the codes and then I got a PARK BRAKE red light on dash and an Amber BRAKE light and the little green mountain sign is flashing and the red suspension code came on. I took it for a short drive to see if anything would clear on its own, and I think I can hear the parking brake dragging a bit. I have seen other posts about the brake sensor going bad? I will look for that post. But I have to say the air suspension seems to be working now but it does seem to be slowly sinking especially in the back and that has been the problem for some time, even before I did the valve blocks or replaced the compressor.

 

Hello All, and first and foremost I wanted to thank everyone who offered their sage advice in regards to the posts about the EAS issues with my LR3. And then I wanted to give an update as it looks like I have fixed the issues. So I did a thorough leak test of all of the components of the EAS, I found that the driver's side front air strut was leaking (looks like original strut) and then I discovered the rear air block was leaking. Since I needed to replace that I thought it would be a good time to repair the electrical connector as I had broken the retaining clip and had to hold it on with zip ties. So I found that Atlantic British sells a new connector so you have to carefully remove pin by pin the wires from the old connector. Not exactly fun as those pins are a little tricky to figure out how to release them. Anyway, got the air strut on, not too bad a job really and the new Arnott struts are much easier to deal with as no stud protruding from the middle of the strut! Got the new connector installed, new rear valve block, and fired it up. The compressor kicked on immediately, all the crazy codes I was getting disappeared, and it filled the system to peak pressure and shut right off. All the wheels looked great and I never heard another peep out of the compressor. I took it for a drive and it was beautiful. I must say that I think the LR 3 has a much better ride than my full size L322 or my 2012 Sport! Hopefully there aren't any hidden leaks in the rear struts under the rubber boots and I can keep it on the road for awhile, and thank you again to everyone who helped!