2006 LR3 Not Shifting in auto mode. This is intermittent. Found tail light out, replaced, worked fine for a day. Then had to sport shift. Found with headlights on, auto shift will not work.... Lights off, auto shifts fine.
Also, while not shifting, throws stabilization error, ABS error, and terrain response wont function and says HDC Fault. Turn off engine, all works for till turn on head lights and sometimes all works with headlights on.
Any ideas?.....

My wife's 2011 LR2 starting saying HDC Fault. Mechanics said needed 2k part to replace HDC system. Now I see my LR3 saying same. But also see maybe bad battery, burned out light, alignment sensor, alignment calibration.....? Hope not a 2k part on iether

 

Need codes, thats a lot of faults. Are you getting an E in the shift indicator on the cluster?

You could try disconnecting the RF capacitor on the transmission, I think the passenger side. When it fails, shifting is prevented. Its not need to operate the vehicle though.





As for the HDC system, there is no part that I know of that can singularly repair it that would cost $2k. Its a system, dependent on lots of things. HDC faults usually always mean the system is down because on of a dozen things is not working right, not that the HDC system itself is an issue.

 

Thanks Dakota. Changed out tail light bulbs and several bulbs in the headlight assembly. Change one bulb, then another would blow. Finally got all working and the LR3 is on it's second day of no codes or dash lights. Hope that issue is sorted. You, or some wrote in an old thread how even a Land Rover does not break many things at one time like in wife's LR2. Think I will try all bulbs and break light switch as I saw another member have success . Also need to find the LR2 a high center brake light socket... The old one melted, must of shorted

Now I need to find the best way to get to the rear diff lock motor to clean and reseal. Spoke to Land Rover and British Atlantic, both said same, No Gasket. Must be RTV.

I'll start a new thread. Hope to get info and may help others. I hear it's a real bear to get to. Will put new drive shaft on same time

 

The LR2's high brake lamp missing could even be causing the HDC fault for all we know.

You can put the truck in super extended mode and work the rear diff lock motor form below. A bit of feeling around for the bolts but its not hard. You just have to be VERY careful not to drop anything inside the diff! I did the motor on mine a while back, it was not easy but not as hard as I thought it would be. Really the hardest park was the connector! It was not easy getting it back on all the way. Also I bought a cheap $150 locking actuator motor assembly, bad idea. It was sorta bad from day one and causing a fault. Oddly the fault is showing up much less lately but the seller did, amazingly, sent me a second new one without asking me to return the first. So I have a new cheap on on standby. I also have my old original one - so if you have questions on that, let me know. RTV is all that is used indeed. Oh, I will add that when I looked at my original the motor was stuck for some reason. I opened it up and the motor brushes were in great shape. Put it back together and the motor spun fine again. No clue, replaced anyway.

 

Agree on the high center brake... cant find a replacement socket.
I saw on old thread you should replace bulbs with OEM.... Aaahhh, I did not, Advanced Auto Parts

Just posted for help on locker motor on new thread. Your name was used
How do I get it to hyper extend? Raise then lower on post?
Wondering if I should replace motor while down there.

 

Go to off-road and put a jack under, tight. Then try to lower, instead it will go into extended mode. Once in extended mode put foot on brake and hold while pressing up on the suspension height switch until you her a bong, it will go even further up.

 

ok

thanks