A few weeks ago I started getting the following: transmission fault, HDC fault, Parking brake fault, Engine system fault accompanied by every light on the dash flashing including my hazards. I can restart it and everything will clear except the engine system fault. If I disconnect the battery everything will clear, however, it only takes a few miles for it to happen again. I took it to the dealership and they said there were several fault codes that they blamed on a bad battery and a couple bad sensors. They replaced the battery and sensors and it was fine...for a day. Now it is worse. Before I could place it in neutral while i was driving and restart it to clear the faults, now i have to put it in park and even then it takes a while to start. I removed the drivers side and passenger side kick panels and door sill plates and inspected for corroded wires. I didnt find anything. I have read where other people have had similar problems but what resolved their issues has not helped me. Does anyone know of anything else that could be causing this problem? My interior is not put back together so i can check different things fairly easily. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

take it back to the dealer for the free repair. they didn't fix the problem and they should have.
don't waste your time. you spent money.

 

Mine was just the brake switch under the dash.

 

Where is that brake switch located. I am now getting a constant illumination of the Amber Parking brake fault lt w/message.

No, I never spilled coffee in the center console.

When you say dash , do you mean the center console?

 

The park brake switch is a fairly easy 5 minute job, inexpensive as well. Also replace all your brake light bulbs with new OEM ones.

Here are some pictures of the brake light switch in place. It's a quarter twist to the counter clock wise to release, unplug wire, replug wire on new one, and stick it back in and twist clockwise to lock in place.

The brake light switch is blue and white.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Accessories

 

I HAVE THIS EXACT SAME PROBLEM.

It is incredibly frustrating. I have gone back to the dealership about 5 times in the past month.

Everytime I go back, I am told that it is most likely corrosion on the wires/modules whatever, and they always call back the next day and say they found the corroded wire(not actually tell me where it was), and that it is running fine. And everytime I take it back, I drive for about a day before the messages pop up again.

Last time I picked up the vehicle, I noticed that my left front headlight was out, after I picked it up. Ideas?

I'd be interested to know if you found an actual solution to your problem.

Now, I will be taking it back into the shop again, and after reading some of your posts in these forums, I intend to ask for the following.

- Update software
- Check break switch
- Check ABS module
- Check Battery ( although I replaced the battery about 9 months ago)

Anyone have any further advise?

 

I got similar problem and need help!!! I am on my way home and don't know if it is safe to drive and also am afraid to turn the car off to make a stop. I have still more than 50 milles to drive. While Driving, I suddenly got dashboard message of suspension lowered, HDC fault system not available, transmission fault and orange brake light. No lights are flashing. When I push the suspension button it makes sound but don't change anything and there is no light on the button. car remains in lower position. Car drives normally and nothing funny is going on, except these symbols. SO, I don't know if it is safe to drive? Today is Sunday and everything is closed. I noticed a while ago that back brake light was not working, so I replaced the bulb because I thought it was burned. But it keeps not working. Sometimes it works though when I push the break. Also, couple days ago something strange has happened. While starting to drive, I tried to accelerate and pushed gas, but the car didn't want to accelerate. It was getting high 5000 r/min and didn't want to accelerate, so I switched to manual and went to 3 M/S. it helped and the car started driving regularly and symptom went away, but I am just thinking considering what has happened today, that it was maybe a start to something else. Please help me! What to do? Drive or rather call towing? Again, car is driving fine at least for now, but these working lights are scary! Thanks!

 

Since you are travelling, you need an easy cheap simple to fix idea.

First off, not even in a Land Rover does everything break down all at once. As such, the problem you have is most likely electrical and if lucky, relates to the brake lighting system.

The link below has a fair bit of material in it, even the Ford Part number for the LR brake light switch and instructions as to how to change. In other words, NAPA or similar will have it but if you can get the official Land Rover one, better yet.

In the mean time, remove the two brake light bulbs in the the two tail light assemblies and see if just removing the bulbs resolves some of the problems.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Brake Light Switch Replacement


The other possibility is the air system is failing and that is a bit more of a challenge to deal with oneself. The link below relates to the air system but my bet is the brake light circuit.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 Air Suspension fuse 35P ECU Manual Shut Off Switch

And yes, just keep driving. Your 3 is a computer first and a 4x4 second. As such, it attempts to go into safe mode whenever it detects what it thinks is a problem. First stage is usually some form of speed limiting; ultimately it refuses to start. Usually an engine shut down, wait ten minutes of so, and it will restart but then when it detects the problems, false or otherwise, it shuts down.

If you have an idea of the problem, sometimes you can disconnect a sensor and that will inhibit the shutdown or just make the problem disappear. Sometimes you have to start up with the sensor connected and then disconnect prior to the POST be completed.

Once you realize you are driving a computer first and the worlds best 4x4 second, troubleshooting becomes easier.

 

I want to thank bbyer for your response! I appreciate your advice! I traveled home safe yesterday and today I went to the dealer. It looks like it was the brake switch. I asked them to replace the bulbs as well. They hooked up the car to the computer and reset the system. Fingers crossed, but everything is working fine now and no more error messages! Let's hope it will stay this way. Thank you!

 

It is nice to hear feedback as to the results.

I hope the new brake light switch solves the problem; it probably will.

One other favor you might do yourself is to purchase something like a CTEK US3300 battery charger. That unit does not seem to do any damage to the 3 and probably does good.

As a matter of routine, every three months perhaps, I will each night for a week, put the charger on the battery. It usually takes about a week for the battery to get back to being fully charged. It seems the LR charging system cannot by itself fully charge the battery. There is nothing wrong with the battery or system, it is just the way it was designed; something about the lesser of the evils - design is always a compromise.

And always use genuine LR bulbs - the off spec off shore bulbs just cause too much havoc; the LR computers expect to see spec bulbs and when they do not, the computers start to have nightmares.