Yes, the techs are correct - what I expect they meant is that one merely needs Land Rover or more specifically, OEM spec bulbs.

As such, OEM can be obtained from any Mercedes, Audi, BMW, or Volvo dealer. The chances of getting OEM spec at the local discount auto parts shop is not so certain.

It is in part a question of what the car computer software is expecting to see when it comes to amp draw and the like - that and odd ball mechanical failure of the bulbs - a game of chance, so to speak, if one likes that sort of adventure.

 

I felt I had to add to my comment to this thread, because you all saved me a ton of money! Before I explain the problems, the solution was, unbelievably, a non-land rover brake bulb. I replaced a blown brake bulb with a non-land rover part - and all hell broke loose. But, because my brake light was working again, and as far as I was concerned it was fixed, I could not possibly associate fixing the bulb with all the problems I had. Who would?!

I shudder to think what would have happened if I hadn't read this thread and taken my RR into a dealer to diagnose the problem and fix it. Loads of warning lights - but the brake lights were fine?! So what was the problem?

Well I started to get an intermittent problem. Incredibly, it only happened when I pressed the brakes, and also when the headlights were on (which were on auto) so the problem only tripped in the dark?! (Hence why I thought it was intermittent). It took my a while to figure it out. The problems that "tripped" included HDC, air suspension, warning lights and it wouldn't change gear automatically (had to use manual). This meant - to hilarious effect to my passengers, that once the issue had presented itself (after applying the brakes in the dark) if I didn't change gear manually, I was only able to automatically change gear - by switching off my headlights in the dark!!! It's kind of hilarious to accelerate in your car, and change gear by turning off the headlights....

So I read the forum, and saw two solutions to similar issues. The first was replacing a faulty brake switchable the brake pedal in the drivers footwell. I changed that and it didn't solve my problem. Then I remember, in the back of my sub-conscious, remembering someone saying to change the brake light for a genuine land rover bulb. Seriously?! Now my brake lights were working fine with their new bulb....but I did remember changing it for a non-genuine bulb...and yes, my issues did start at about the same time....Mmm. So, almost incredulously, I bought a genuine land rover bulb, smirking at the idea that a slightly different bulb could fix all of these serious issues.....and hey presto.

I have to say first of all, thank you for this thread. That problem would have been completely unfathomable to a dealer. If the bulb works why would anyone look there? If my lights are changing gear, HDC isn't working, transmission info's flashing up, in a 175k mile car.....no one is going to seriously think about changing a light bulb to fix all those issues are they?!

It's frightening to think a bloody light bulb can screw up your car so much, but if anyone else out there if having similar issues....it might be as simple as that....try it. First!

 

I've been using non-LR bulbs for years now. Just the generic brand I find at the local auto parts store. Now, maybe these particular bulbs are higher quality...or maybe, and more importantly, they can only be oriented such that the filaments are aligned vertically. Either way, I've been lucky in their use. I'll probably use LR bulbs in the future, though, depending on the price difference.

 

I much appreciated your post.

At times I think I am just blowing in the wind when I obsess about a filament taking out the 3, but it will.

If one studies the brake light wiring diagrams, one can see how the circuit is tied to the ABS, the engine computer, and the tranny. Off spec bulbs can draw off spec amps, (that can be one reason they are off spec), and that upsets the 3s monitoring systems.

What many owners and some techs do not realize is that signal light current is monitored many times a minute by the FETs on the circuit board located behind the glove box fuse panel. When the FETs discover funny amp readings, they reacts to protect the vehicle - usually by shutting it down. No go, nothing breaks - very computer, very logical.

The brake light circuit filaments are similarly monitored with not always the best results.

I have always felt the easy way for James Bond to stop an armored 3 is to shoot out a tail light. Jaws would be doomed.

 

 

Very supportive thread, Thanking all participants, im gonna try the cluster in the morning, just on the first day of raining I saw water dripping from the sunroof and minutes later all kinds of hell broke loose as this threads title suggests, I guess the water travelled through the bPillars into the cluster

 

[QUOTE=kbarker27;293452]A few weeks ago I started getting the following: transmission fault, HDC fault, Parking brake fault, Engine system fault accompanied by every light on the dash flashing including my hazards. I can restart it and everything will clear except the engine system fault. If I disconnect the battery everything will clear, however, it only takes a few miles for it to happen again. I took it to the dealership and they said there were several fault codes that they blamed on a bad battery and a couple bad sensors. They replaced the battery and sensors and it was fine...for a day. Now it is worse. Before I could place it in neutral while i was driving and restart it to clear the faults, now i have to put it in park and even then it takes a while to start. I removed the drivers side and passenger side kick panels and door sill plates and inspected for corroded wires. I didnt find anything. I have read where other people have had similar problems but what resolved their issues has not helped me. Does anyone know of anything else that could be causing this problem? My interior is not put back together so i can check different things fairly easily. Any help would be greatly appreciated.[/QUOT

I got same problem, everything checked battery, alternator, starter motor, brake switch all working fine. It only does this when raining or just after it has rained.

 

[QUOTE=kbarker27;293452]A few weeks ago I started getting the following: transmission fault, HDC fault, Parking brake fault, Engine system fault accompanied by every light on the dash flashing including my hazards. I can restart it and everything will clear except the engine system fault. If I disconnect the battery everything will clear, however, it only takes a few miles for it to happen again. I took it to the dealership and they said there were several fault codes that they blamed on a bad battery and a couple bad sensors. They replaced the battery and sensors and it was fine...for a day. Now it is worse. Before I could place it in neutral while i was driving and restart it to clear the faults, now i have to put it in park and even then it takes a while to start. I removed the drivers side and passenger side kick panels and door sill plates and inspected for corroded wires. I didnt find anything. I have read where other people have had similar problems but what resolved their issues has not helped me. Does anyone know of anything else that could be causing this problem? My interior is not put back together so i can check different things fairly easily. Any help would be greatly appreciated.[/QUOT

I got same problem, everything checked battery, alternator, starter motor, brake switch all working fine. It only does this when raining or just after it has rained.

 

[QUOTE=Jessie S Ubhi;701728]Maybe there is effectively nothing actually wrong.

What you are saying that all is good until it rains or after a rain, hence one much conclude water is getting somewhere not good. In a Land Rover, with all its electronics, that can be pretty much anywhere, hence the difficulty of determining where.

What I am saying is that in your case, the fix is to stop water from getting to some electrical part that results in all the problems - solve the water problem and you have done about as much as you can.

The question is therefore what or where is the part that is getting wet.

I would start with the application of a bit of 3M black electrical tape to the top of the "nipples" where the electrical conductors enter into the plastic cover over the Transmission Module case. Per the jpg below, this module is located behind the main starting battery in the engine compartment, at least in my LR3. The jpg, (battery removed), shows where I have applied tape to the two nipples in an attempt to keep water from entering the top of the cover and soaking the main board under. Note that the cover itself is just that, a cover and is open behind but the bit of tape is enough to keep rain water from getting to the connectors and then only the internals.

Other water leakage locations are the sunroof and the two A pillars on the left and right sides of the windscreen. There are lots of posts regarding sunroof drains so if you find water or moisture in either of the door sill areas, then it usually gets there via the A pillars or the sunroof. Also if it is wet in the door sills then that is most likely where the wires are that are resulting in the problems, but the solution is to resolve the water ingress.

Incidentally, is the carpet wet on either the left or right side of the transmission hump? If so, that is another fairly easy to resolve water ingress concern.

 

I know this is an old thread, but has anyone tried using a Ford alternator and PWM regulator assembly in their LR3 in place of the Land Rover (Denso?) unit? Or perhaps the PWM regulator and brush assembly will fit in the LR3 alternator? Or maybe none of it will work correctly in a LR3...
As an aside, I have replaced many bulbs in my LR3, all Sylvania and no problems, but will be removing the passenger side covers this spring to check the wiring and the A pillar sunroof drain...