I spent about a year trying to figure out why instead of the engine starting, I would get clicking noises coming from I thought the passenger side glove compartment fuse box.

Ultimately I determined the clicking noise was coming from the starter motor contacts non quite contacting. Replacing the starter resolved the problem. I also determined that one could just replace the starter contacts as it is a common Denso failure point. The reality is that it is just as much labour to remove and install a rebuilt unit as it is to replace contacts so ....
It is a money vs labour thing really.

I never did walk as with repeated rotations of the ignition key, ultimately the starter would engage. It seems I cheated a bit as just about every night I connected my CTEK US3300 trickle charger so each morning I had a near fully charged battery with a cold start voltage of perhaps 12.2 VDC. This it turns out was the secret to getting a start on first attempt rather than the clicking. As such, you might try getting your battery fully charged up. It may be that you will achieve turnover and if so, that suggests a starter problem rather than anything more complicated.

That was why I fooled about for a year prior to installing the new starter - I was looking for a solution more complicated - just changing the starter motor was too easy.

The warning lights and E letters also suggests a weak battery.

Incidentally, check 10 amp Fuse F30E in the Engine compartment fuse box. It could be blown and while that will not inhibit an engine start, you would not be able to get the vehicle to move.

The link below provides more info re F30E.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - ZF 6HP26 Automatic Transmission in LR3/Mechatronic Replacement Hints plus drains for steel and plastic pans

 

OURS IS BACK TO NORMAL sat for 4-5 days and fired up no lights, i would lean toward short

 

Is there a way to check the starter without removing it from the truck? How many volts should it read have at the positive terminal at the starter? THanks much for all of the info! Great forum. Phil

 

I do not know anyway of checking or inspecting the starter motor - tricks, that sort of thing - and particularly of the solenoid contacts but others might.

The voltage at the solenoid where the big cable connects should be effectively the same voltage as at the battery positive post. If there was a ground problem between the starter and the engine so to speak, (which is possible), then the voltage could read less or I guess if the cable to the starter motor was defective..... Incidentally, I think you will find that if you follow the cable down to the starter, you will see it keeps going or Y's and connects to the alternator B+. This I might add is unique and I think not seen on other vehicles. I think that is why we have some strange problems at times when something is wrong and hence all seems wrong.

The link below is to a pdf that you can print out or just look at. It shows the starter motor wiring for the V8 and diesel from the battery on down.

As above, I think that our petrol 3's use the diesel layout and the word petrol is just to get you confused.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 miscellaneous/Frame Jacking Points showing where holes are located.

 

We recently purchased a 2006 LR3 HSE and about one week later, as soon as the temperatures started dropping in my location, the truck not start and it would show a "HDC system not available" code. After a couple of attempts the truck fired up and everything was well. However, the following day we had the same problem starting it up in the morning but also it completely stalled as soon as we hit a slop on a decline. At first I thought it was the fuel pump or filter since we were running low on gas and sitting on a 25 degree slope. I put some gas on the truck and nothing, the starter wouldn't even turn after a while. So we had to jump start. I visited this forum and read that the HDC fault likely meant a low voltage battery. I immediately replaced the battery and VOILA!!! the truck starts like brand new and no more HDC or transmission gear faults.

 

Replaced the brake light switch and the brake lights and still have all the amber lights and hdc fault, transmission fault, etc. Next step is the battery? Any other suggestions?

 

I gather the above may be your first post.

It is helpful if you are more specific - that means long winded.

There must be 20 or so amber lights, (probably more), on the dash so you have to tell us exactly which ones and for how long - on at start up and blink off or remain on solid for blinking or change colour - often to red - that sort of description.

I assume the engine starts normally and your 3 moves when put in D, or not, but you have to tell us.

There is a 10 amp fuse, F30E in the engine compartment that allows engine start but the vehicle will not move as if the tranny has failed.

The tranny has not, a 20 dollar radio noise capacitor as failed. The link below has a picture of the capacitor which is located down by the tranny but can be just disconnected and the fuse replaced and off you go.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 miscellaneous/Transpo Regulator IN6349 Pin Assignment

 

May be Best to get the codes from the ecm , there's a lot that can cause an issue

 

Ok so it's a 2008 LR3 HSE. I had parked it outside for a couple hours (one of the first really cold days of the year) and first big snow. Came back and started it up and have the following:

Suspension warning indicator
Abs warning indicator
Amber brake light
DSC light
"Transmission fault stop with care"
"Hdc fault system unavailable"
"System fault Special programs unavailable"
"Suspension lowered"

Everything starts up just fine and it is driving fine, other than the suspension being completely lowered. I have changed out the brake light bulbs and the brake light switch. Going today to have the battery tested.

The lights come on at startup and remain on. None blinking, all steady amber lights. No problem going into drive.

 

Trouble codes?