The following 2 actions failed as well:
- new cam position sensors
- new tank access seal (I didn't like the way the old one was fitting)

I guess it's on to wiring.

 

New gas cap.

 

This is at idle after running for 60 minutes.

 

I just dealt with this same issue, however the time period between starts ended up getting longer and longer for me, sometimes up to 45 minutes! I replaced many of the same parts you did as well.

What ended up fixing it for me was I went back and carefully re-seated all of my injectors. Based on some research it sounded like it was getting vapor locked, I never checked fuel rail pressure after running it but the symptoms were textbook. One of them had to be loose somehow. After doing this it starts fine now when warmed up.

Best of luck, I know how frustrating this can be.

 

I just finished replacing the intake manifold gaskets on my 06 LR3 4.4. When I put it back together I forgot to plug the coolant temperature sensor back in. It acted kinda similar to what your are describing, except it didn't run well when the engine was cold, then wouldn't restart with the engine warm. I realized my mistake, plugged it back in and the truck ran great.
As far as I understand these LR3s rely on measuring engine temperature and fuel rail temperature to decide how much fuel to deliver. Just guessing here, but it could be that your coolant temp sensor is giving a faulty reading when the engine is warm.


When I put the fuel rails back into the intake manifold I gave them some firm persuasion with a rubber mallet, it felt wrong to bonk the fuel rails but it was the only way I could get the new O rings to seat.

Best of luck!

 

hey man any way you can please send a descriptive picture or video of the coolant hose layout I can’t seem to get it right

 

Which coolant hoses?

 

Still chasing this issue. Noid tester reveals when it's not starting its because there's no signal to the injectors to fire. Why would this be?
Am I to understand that cam sensors control injectors crank sensor controls spark? Both are new. Both replaced new 2x.

 

I just found the issue with my LR3 which wouldn't start when it got hot. I found the filter flange plate connection for the pump was all corroded and burned out on the inside of the tank.
not sure i can add pictures since this is my first post but it may be something to look at that may help you.
I looked back at the Carfax history of this vehicle and it seems the previous owners went and replaced a lot of what you had replaced and i bet they was trying to track down this intermittent problem by doing so.

 

When I initially replaced the pump I noticed this same condition on my filter assembly so I replaced it too. Didn't fix the problem. I have since replaced it again with an OEM filter. Still no change. Interestingly enough there was also a fuse associated with the fuel pump under the hood that appeared to be overheated and slightly disfigured. Of course I replaced that too.
I'm wondering if a clogged filter caused an overheating situation with the circuit and now there's damage somewhere in the circuit. I have no idea. Did replacing the filter fix your problem? I've done it twice..