2007 LR3 4.4l won't start when hot
I'm still waiting for parts to come in hopefully they will be here today. i am replacing the pump filter and jumper cable.
I think if the fuse was disfigured then the harness that supplys the pump took alot of heat.This can cause the cables to become brittle and even effect the plug connections. i know the jumper cable between flange plate and the harness on mine is warped slightly and the female spade connections don't look 100% due to the heat from the bad connections.
I dont under stand why they added a different connection to the flange plate that required a jumper cable to link up to the old harness connection. seems dumb to me to add in unnecesary connections.
if the new jumper cable doesnt fit to the harness correctly i will cut the end off and splice it in that way then the only connection is the top side of the flange plate.
I think if the fuse was disfigured then the harness that supplys the pump took alot of heat.This can cause the cables to become brittle and even effect the plug connections. i know the jumper cable between flange plate and the harness on mine is warped slightly and the female spade connections don't look 100% due to the heat from the bad connections.
I dont under stand why they added a different connection to the flange plate that required a jumper cable to link up to the old harness connection. seems dumb to me to add in unnecesary connections.
if the new jumper cable doesnt fit to the harness correctly i will cut the end off and splice it in that way then the only connection is the top side of the flange plate.
I'm still waiting for parts to come in hopefully they will be here today. i am replacing the pump filter and jumper cable.
I think if the fuse was disfigured then the harness that supplys the pump took alot of heat.This can cause the cables to become brittle and even effect the plug connections. i know the jumper cable between flange plate and the harness on mine is warped slightly and the female spade connections don't look 100% due to the heat from the bad connections.
I dont under stand why they added a different connection to the flange plate that required a jumper cable to link up to the old harness connection. seems dumb to me to add in unnecesary connections.
if the new jumper cable doesnt fit to the harness correctly i will cut the end off and splice it in that way then the only connection is the top side of the flange plate.
I think if the fuse was disfigured then the harness that supplys the pump took alot of heat.This can cause the cables to become brittle and even effect the plug connections. i know the jumper cable between flange plate and the harness on mine is warped slightly and the female spade connections don't look 100% due to the heat from the bad connections.
I dont under stand why they added a different connection to the flange plate that required a jumper cable to link up to the old harness connection. seems dumb to me to add in unnecesary connections.
if the new jumper cable doesnt fit to the harness correctly i will cut the end off and splice it in that way then the only connection is the top side of the flange plate.
I managed to get everything installed last night but came across lots of problems. I had engine faults, suspension faults hdc faults. Around 200+ faults showing.
I had the battery disconnected so i figured it would be the cause and i would just clear them with the IID tool.
that didn't work. i noticed the battery was at 12v so i charged it up over night and now its 12.6v.
Tried to clear the faults again but still the same. I even tried the hard reset for clearing the ecu but still no luck.
So i guess i will be doing some googling to see what else it could be. I never had one fault before hand. Maybe i trapped the harness with the tank or something and now i'm grounding the canbus connections? maybe these alarms are lack of communication between the modules?
I will be dropping the Tank again to double check but i'd be surprised if it was this but that's all i can think of right now.
the harness side was misshaped probably due to heat. It wasn't so bad that i couldn't push the two together.
i will add in some pictures later tonight.
I had the battery disconnected so i figured it would be the cause and i would just clear them with the IID tool.
that didn't work. i noticed the battery was at 12v so i charged it up over night and now its 12.6v.
Tried to clear the faults again but still the same. I even tried the hard reset for clearing the ecu but still no luck.
So i guess i will be doing some googling to see what else it could be. I never had one fault before hand. Maybe i trapped the harness with the tank or something and now i'm grounding the canbus connections? maybe these alarms are lack of communication between the modules?
I will be dropping the Tank again to double check but i'd be surprised if it was this but that's all i can think of right now.
the harness side was misshaped probably due to heat. It wasn't so bad that i couldn't push the two together.
i will add in some pictures later tonight.
First of all, I am new to land rover products and know very little however I have work on other vehicles for a long time. The only reason why I am on this forum is to diagnose my own LR3 problems. So take all suggestions from here on with that in mind and know that I am just trying to help. 
After reading it sounded to me like an issue with the disablizer if you are getting a clean crank and no other issues. I have read there is a fuse box behind the passenger side glove box. I have never been in there but thought you might want to poke around there and see if you find anything different when the vehicle is warm vs cold. I have read before about degraded fuses that have not blown but can cause issues when they get warm. Again, not a land rover specialist but something I would check.

After reading it sounded to me like an issue with the disablizer if you are getting a clean crank and no other issues. I have read there is a fuse box behind the passenger side glove box. I have never been in there but thought you might want to poke around there and see if you find anything different when the vehicle is warm vs cold. I have read before about degraded fuses that have not blown but can cause issues when they get warm. Again, not a land rover specialist but something I would check.
Thanks for the suggestions Rusty.
I'm an idiot, i found my problem was self inflicted.
i had previously pulled fuses out while testing. i'd put a 15 amp fuse back in the wrong slot it was one over.
I had taken a picture of the fuse box awhile back to confirm my mistake.
All the faults have cleared and i've drove around the block without any issues so far, i guess time will tell.
I'm an idiot, i found my problem was self inflicted.
i had previously pulled fuses out while testing. i'd put a 15 amp fuse back in the wrong slot it was one over.
I had taken a picture of the fuse box awhile back to confirm my mistake.
All the faults have cleared and i've drove around the block without any issues so far, i guess time will tell.
Thanks for the suggestions Rusty.
I'm an idiot, i found my problem was self inflicted.
i had previously pulled fuses out while testing. i'd put a 15 amp fuse back in the wrong slot it was one over.
I had taken a picture of the fuse box awhile back to confirm my mistake.
All the faults have cleared and i've drove around the block without any issues so far, i guess time will tell.
I'm an idiot, i found my problem was self inflicted.
i had previously pulled fuses out while testing. i'd put a 15 amp fuse back in the wrong slot it was one over.
I had taken a picture of the fuse box awhile back to confirm my mistake.
All the faults have cleared and i've drove around the block without any issues so far, i guess time will tell.
Did you ever get the original problem solved?
Yes, it's been running without issues so far. I replaced the pump, filter and that link harness.
It must be the season of car problems for me since now my wife's car brakes are warped and need replacing along with an intermittent blower fan.
My other car's battery just died right after the 2 year warranty ended also.
This is my second Duralast battery from Autozone that died right after the 2 year warranty ran out.


