2007 LR3 EAS Height control toggle switch
You'd have to compare it to the GAP IID tool. I only really see people talk about the GAP tool because you can do everything on the LR's for $500. Most other scanners that would handle Land Rover's would be significantly more expensive (i.e Snap-On, etc)
It's not a toggle switch, they are membrane switches on a PCB. You could, in theory, solder a wire to each side of the circuit and connect those wires to an external momentary switch. Likely, if you are having any switch response issues, you just need to open up the module and clean the membrane switch contacts.
The rotary ****, two toggles, and one button all pull off (carefully); once that is done you can remove the two screws and separate the module case halves - be careful doing this as the connector pins protrude through the back case half. With the switches/button/**** removed and the back cover of the module removed, you should be able to push on the hill-descent button mechanism to "pop" the PCB away from the housing (again, be gentle). Once you've got the PCB out, remove the rubber bits that hold the switch pads and inspect the pads (in the grey rubber) and the switch (on the PCB).
I had water ingress into my EAS switch and it would not register a "lower" command; after teardown and further inspection the PCB membrane switch SW5 was corroded, as was the membrane switch pad on the bottom of the rubber. Some light sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper and I'm back in action. Saved myself 350 Canadian Pesos.
I don't normally like bumping a dead thread; but I figured someone else may find this before a new post because Google has already crawled this one (that's how I found it).
If anyone wants to see pictures, I'll upload some. If there's value in a DIY style thread, I can do that too.
Cheers.
The rotary ****, two toggles, and one button all pull off (carefully); once that is done you can remove the two screws and separate the module case halves - be careful doing this as the connector pins protrude through the back case half. With the switches/button/**** removed and the back cover of the module removed, you should be able to push on the hill-descent button mechanism to "pop" the PCB away from the housing (again, be gentle). Once you've got the PCB out, remove the rubber bits that hold the switch pads and inspect the pads (in the grey rubber) and the switch (on the PCB).
I had water ingress into my EAS switch and it would not register a "lower" command; after teardown and further inspection the PCB membrane switch SW5 was corroded, as was the membrane switch pad on the bottom of the rubber. Some light sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper and I'm back in action. Saved myself 350 Canadian Pesos.
I don't normally like bumping a dead thread; but I figured someone else may find this before a new post because Google has already crawled this one (that's how I found it).
If anyone wants to see pictures, I'll upload some. If there's value in a DIY style thread, I can do that too.
Cheers.
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azsparrow
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Aug 23, 2016 12:28 PM



